Evaluation of the anti‐wrinkle effect of a lipophilic pro‐vitamin C derivative, tetra‐isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid

Abstract

Background Tetra‐isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC‐IP), an oil‐soluble vitamin C derivative, is known to be effective for treating photoaging skin caused by oxidative stress. In addition, it is known that morphological changes of the skin occur on the face with aging, and the main cause has been reported to be photoaging. Aims There have not been any published reports that examined the clinical effects of vitamin C derivatives on periorbital wrinkles. The purpose of this study was to characterize the potential anti‐wrinkle effect of VC‐IP. Methods A double‐blind, randomized, placebo‐controlled, split face clinical trial was performed on 3 groups of 23 female subjects each who used 1%, 2%, or 3% VC‐IP creams versus a placebo cream to treat their facial wrinkles. VC‐IP cream was applied on the periorbital area on one side of the face of each subject twice a day for 8 weeks and a placebo cream was applied on the other side. Anti‐wrinkle effects were evaluated by visual wrinkle grading and topographic assessments. Results Periorbital wrinkles treated with VC‐IP twice a day for 8 weeks showed marked or moderate improvements according to visual observations and grading of photographs. Moreover, topographic assessments confirmed the improving effects of VC‐IP, and more interestingly, the appearance of those effects differed depending on the VC‐IP concentration. In addition, sufficient improvement was observed in parameters reported to be associated with dermal structure at lower concentrations of VC‐IP. Conclusions These results indicate that topical application of VC‐IP cream reduces periorbital wrinkles caused by skin aging.

Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) as a Cosmeceutical to Increase Dermal Collagen for Skin Antiaging Purposes: Emerging Combination Therapies

“…The results of several clinical trials suggest that AA and its precursor reduce wrinkles and increase the elasticity of the skin by preventing the loss of collagen in the process of photoaging and the natural aging of the skin [ 67 , 68 , 69 , 89 ]. External supplementation of AA can have a beneficial effect especially when the level of AA in the body is significantly lower than the normal state [ 67 ].…”

“…Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (11), a liquid form AA precursor, protected UV-A-induced cytotoxicity in human keratinocytes, enhanced collagen production, and repressed MMP2 and MMP9 activities in human fibroblasts [ 88 ]. Its anti-wrinkle effect was evaluated in double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled, split-face clinical trials, by applying either 1%, 2%, or 3% ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate cream on the periorbital area on one side of the face, and placebo cream on the other side of the face, for 8 weeks in 3 groups of 23 female subjects [ 89 ]. Each ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate cream significantly reduced periorbital wrinkles compared to the placebo although dose-dependency was not observed.…”

Efficacy of topical vitamin C in melasma and photoaging: A systematic review

“…Yokota et al 16 reported no dose–response effect among a 1%, 2%, or 3% tetra‐isopalmitoyl vitamin C on periorbital wrinkles, with improving effects even at a low concentration of 1% VC‐IP, which reiterates the need to design comparative studies to find the ideal concentration.…”

Multifaceted Effects of L-Cysteine, L-Ascorbic Acid, and Their Derivatives on the Viability and Melanin Synthesis of B16/F10 Cells under Different Conditions

“…Currently, there is no strong evidence supporting the efficacy of L-AA as a skin depigmenting agent [ 16 ]. Nevertheless, various types of derivatives of L-AA, such as magnesium L-ascorbyl 2-phosphate (MAP) [ 17 ], L-ascorbic acid 2- O -glucoside (AAG) [ 18 ], 3- O -ethyl L-ascorbic acid (EAA) [ 19 ], and L-ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (ATI) [ 20 ], have been developed and tested as skin depigmenting or anti-wrinkle agents.…”