Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) as a Cosmeceutical to Increase Dermal Collagen for Skin Antiaging Purposes: Emerging Combination Therapies

Abstract

Ascorbic acid (AA) is an essential nutrient and has great potential as a cosmeceutical that protects the health and beauty of the skin. AA is expected to attenuate photoaging and the natural aging of the skin by reducing oxidative stress caused by external and internal factors and by promoting collagen gene expression and maturation. In this review, the biochemical basis of AA associated with collagen metabolism and clinical evidence of AA in increasing dermal collagen and inhibiting skin aging were discussed. In addition, we reviewed emerging strategies that have been developed to overcome the shortcomings of AA as a cosmeceutical and achieve maximum efficacy. Because extracellular matrix proteins, such as collagen, have unique amino acid compositions, their production in cells is influenced by the availability of specific amino acids. For example, glycine residues occupy 1/3 of amino acid residues in collagen protein, and the supply of glycine can be a limiting factor for collagen synthesis. Experiments showed that glycinamide was the most effective among the various amino acids and amidated amino acids in stimulating collagen production in human dermal fibroblasts. Thus, it is possible to synergistically improve collagen synthesis by combining AA analogs and amino acid analogs that act at different stages of the collagen production process. This combination therapy would be useful for skin antiaging that requires enhanced collagen production.

Ultraviolet exposure regulates skin metabolome based on the microbiome

“…In the absence of the microbiome, we observe increased ascorbate (vitamin C) and aldarate metabolism in UV-exposed germ-free mice compared to control mice with an intact microbiome. Vitamin C is known to attenuate photoaging, stimulate collagen synthesis, provide antioxidant protection, and have great cosmetic potential 12 . In addition, the vitamin B9 or folic acid vitamin pathway was also higher in UV-exposed germ-free and disinfected mice.…”

Chronic Wound Healing Models

“…They have a similar mechanism of wound healing to rodents in which they heal mostly by tissue contraction; limiting data translation to humans. , A major use of Guinea pigs in wound healing has been for the study of collagen synthesis . Collagen requires vitamin C as a cofactor for its synthesis . Many animal models are able to synthesize their own vitamin C, making it challenging to study collagen synthesis in a vitamin-deficient state.…”

Melanocortin therapies to resolve fibroblast-mediated diseases

“…However, strategies to enhance the actions of these cells can be beneficial in certain conditions where a loss, rather than an excess of fibroblast activity is present. The use of topical vitamin C is a well-known anti-ageing strategy for the enhancement of collagen deposition by dermal fibroblasts ( 126 ). The activation of periodontal fibroblasts using fibroblast growth factor 2, FGF-2, can induce tissue regeneration in periodontitis ( 127 ).…”