Evaluation of skin firmness by the Dyna<scp>SKIN</scp>, a novel non‐contact compression device, and its use in revealing the efficacy of a skincare regimen featuring a novel anti‐ageing ingredient, acetyl aspartic acid

Kearney, E.; Messaraa, Cyril; Grennan, Gemma; Koeller, G.; Mavon, Alain; Merinville, Eve

doi:10.1111/srt.12314

Cited by 8 publications

(7 citation statements)

References 37 publications

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“…The increase in firmness demonstrated by L4 is the observable clinical benefit of an improved epidermal and dermal structure. Kearney et al [34] investigated changes in firmness of an anti‐ageing ingredient after 12 weeks and showed a similar decrease in maximum depth seen from the base formula and L4 treatment, about 11% after 1 weeks. Interestingly, the anti‐ageing ingredient tested in Kearney et al had a decrease in volume versus baseline of 13% after 4 weeks and 14% after 12 weeks, where L4‐treated skin had a significant decrease of 15% in a 4‐week period versus baseline (8% for the base formula, p = 0.08 vs. L4 treated), further supporting the efficacy of L4 in functional clinical assessments in relatively short‐term studies.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 91%

“…The system measures firmness of the skin (cheek) by blowing gentle air perpendicular to the skin surface and transforming the deformation information into a 3D map of the skin surface. This technique provides qualitative and quantitative data for real tactile perception of firmness and laxity of the skin and its sag via its measurement of depth, surface and volume of the skin deformation [34]. DynaSKIN measures firmness as the correlation of the size of the skin's maximum resistance to an applied force, which can provide a quantitative measure of skin structural integrity and a consumer-relevant measure, as it mirrors the way consumers judge firmness on their own skin, by pushing or pressing on the skin surface [34,35].…”

Section: Firming Measurementsmentioning

confidence: 99%

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L‐4‐thiazolylalanine (Protinol), a novel non‐proteinogenic amino acid, demonstrates epidermal and dermal efficacy with clinically observable benefits

Portocarrero Huang,

Idkowiak‐Baldys,

Liebel

et al. 2023

Intern J of Cosmetic Sci

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ObjectiveFacial skin undergoes major structural and functional changes as a result of intrinsic and extrinsic factors. The goal of the current work is to demonstrate L‐4‐thiazolylalaine (L4, Protinol), a non‐proteinogenic amino acid shown to stimulate production of dermal proteins by fibroblasts, is an alternative efficacious topical ingredient for visible signs of aging.MethodsIn vitro studies using 3D human skin tissue models were performed to show changes in protein and gene expression of key dermal markers in samples treated with 0.3% L4 compared to a vehicle control. In vivo evaluation of skin turnover was measured in volunteers after treatment with L4 compared to retinol. Skin biopsies (n=30) were taken to investigate epidermal and dermal changes in cases treated with L4 and compared to retinol. Finally, a clinical evaluation (n=28) was conducted to assess the efficacy of L4 over a base formulation using various aging parameters within a population of women 46‐66 years old with mild‐to‐moderate wrinkles.ResultsIn vitro studies on 3D tissues displayed significant changes in the dermal matrix via an increase in HA and pro‐collagen I production and a decrease in expression of inflammatory genes. In vivo biopsy studies demonstrated that L4 and retinol independently increased epidermal thickness and collagen remodeling significantly more compared with the base formula. Clinical evaluation showed firmer and smoother skin at day 28 post‐treatment with L4 over the vehicle control without causing side effects such as redness or irritation.ConclusionL4 is a novel, multi‐functional ingredient which offers a superior alternative to currently available technologies for improving epidermal and dermal parameters that change during aging and photodamage.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 91%

Section: Firming Measurementsmentioning

confidence: 99%

L‐4‐thiazolylalanine (Protinol), a novel non‐proteinogenic amino acid, demonstrates epidermal and dermal efficacy with clinically observable benefits

Portocarrero Huang,

Idkowiak‐Baldys,

Liebel

et al. 2023

Intern J of Cosmetic Sci

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“…These were the upper and lower eyelids, upper cheek, lower cheek, and jowls. Skin firmness is often judged by the tactile motion of pushing or pressing of the skin 10 . In this study, the participants were seated in front of a mirror and facial skin firmness was determined by using their fingertips to press on the facial regions; facial puffiness was assessed visually.…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Self‐perceived and objective measurements of facial puffiness in Chinese women

Nkengne

Robic

Lua³

2020

Skin Research and Technology

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Background Facial puffiness, caused by mild or normal fluid retention, commonly experienced by women, may not pose a health risk, but it can be a cause of cosmetic concern. The objectives of this study were to determine whether self‐perceived facial puffiness can be measured objectively. Materials and Methods A total of 151 Chinese women between 20 and 68 years of age were recruited. Facial water content, skin thickness, and elasticity were measured at two time points within a day (visit one occurred when the participants perceived they had facial puffiness; visit two occurred when the participants perceived their facial puffiness had subsided). Participants were also given a rating scale to self‐evaluate their puffiness and firmness at different regions of the face. Results The participants could perceive a difference in facial puffiness between the two visits. Water content and skin thickness were significantly higher in all regions of the face for all participants during the first visit. Skin elasticity was also significantly different between visits one and two. There was a significant increase in water content and skin thickness in the lower eyelid region in women who were older than 40 years. Conclusion This is the first study to show that self‐perceived facial puffiness can be measured objectively and that skin elasticity can change significantly when facial puffiness subsides.

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“…Skin firmness was assessed using the DynaSKIN device by Eotech SA, Marcoussis, France (Kearney et al 2017). In this method an air stream is blown perpendicularly onto a defined spot on the cheeks of the volunteers causing a skin deformation.…”

Section: Clinical Test Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Skin Filling and Firming Activity of a Hyaluronic Acid Inducing Synthetic Tripeptide

Campiche

Jackson

Laurent

et al. 2019

Int J Pept Res Ther

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Aging of skin manifests in loss of volume and firming due to degradation of extracellular matrix components such as collagen and hyaluronic acid leading to wrinkling and sagging. To counteract loss of facial volume and regain firmness, fillers like hyaluronic acid (HA) are commonplace in cosmetic dermatology. We developed a synthetic tripeptide tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric acid urea trifluoroacetate with proven hyaluronic acid stimulating activity in vitro. This study investigated the filling and firming activity of the tripeptide. In vitro: Microtissue technology was used to construct spherical 3D-skin equivalents. These were exposed to a tripeptide solution and content of hyaluronic acid and its receptor CD44 were assessed using histological techniques. Skin tissue culture was used to assess HA expression ex vivo. A placebo controlled, randomized, in parallel groups study to assess the firming, filling, and moisturizing activity of the peptide product was designed. We recruited 30 female Caucasian volunteers age 40 to 60 per group. Product application was twice daily for 29 days. Skin volume, deformation and moisturization were measured. HA and CD44 content in skin were increased in vitro and ex vivo. In vivo, skin firming was improved by a significant decrease in cheek deformation, a significantly restored skin volume below the eyes, and significantly improved skin hydration as measured on the cheekbone. We show evidence that the tripeptide tetradecyl-diaminobutyroylvalyldiaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetate restores facial skin volume by stimulating HA synthesis. These results underline the anti-aging activity of this synthetic tripeptide.

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Evaluation of skin firmness by the DynaSKIN, a novel non‐contact compression device, and its use in revealing the efficacy of a skincare regimen featuring a novel anti‐ageing ingredient, acetyl aspartic acid

Cited by 8 publications

References 37 publications

L‐4‐thiazolylalanine (Protinol), a novel non‐proteinogenic amino acid, demonstrates epidermal and dermal efficacy with clinically observable benefits

L‐4‐thiazolylalanine (Protinol), a novel non‐proteinogenic amino acid, demonstrates epidermal and dermal efficacy with clinically observable benefits

Self‐perceived and objective measurements of facial puffiness in Chinese women

Skin Filling and Firming Activity of a Hyaluronic Acid Inducing Synthetic Tripeptide

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