Equilibrium Conditions in Beach Wave Interaction

The result of a theoretical approach shows that the beach profile characteristics is governed by a modified Iribarren number which includes the effects among the factors of initial beach slope, wave angle and wave steepness. A series of experiments are conducted in a three-dimensional movable bed model on the conditions of two different initial beach slopes, two incident wave angles as well as several erosive wave steepnesses. The relative importance of each factor involved in the parameter is discussed. It is shown that the modified Iribarren number is effective in the analysis, of beach profile characteristics under the action of inclined waves. The empirical relationships between beach profile changes and the modified Iribarren number are proposed on the basis of experimental results.

“…According to Eqs. (13) and (14), the transport rate can be rewritten as Qs*=k 3 c y 6 cosa b (15) where k, is a constant. By comparing Eqs.…”

Section: Theoretical Considerationmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Depth and Location Of Stable Pointmentioning

confidence: 99%

Beach Profile Characteristics Due to the Inclined Waves

Hsu¹,

Ou²

1988

“…If the parameter, H/VfT, is an important parameter for profile type, it follows (by dimensional analysis) that it is also important for determination of the foreshore slope, 6, measured in degrees at the still water line. Collecting data from different experimenters, including Rector (1954), Falrchild (1959, Raman andEarattupuzha, (1972), van Hijum (1974) and Thompson (1976), foreshore slopes were measured and are presented in Fig. 1 versus the dimensionless fall velocity.…”

Section: Equilibrium Beach Profile and Foreshore Slopementioning

confidence: 99%

Study of Equilibrium Beach Profiles

Dalrymple

Thompson

1976

“…The final beach profiles of the previous tests which satisfied the following three conditions were used: (1) a wave flume was used, (2) sand or gravel was used as bed material, and (3) wave duration was more than 40 hours ( Eagleson et al, 1961;Horikawa et al, 1973;Monroe, 1969;Raman and Earattupuzha, 1972;Rector, 1954;Saville, 1957;Tsuchiya and Yoshioka, 1970;Watts, 1954 ). As shown in Fig.…”

Section: Dominant Parameters In Beach Transformationmentioning

confidence: 99%

Two-Dimensional Beach Transformation Due to Waves

Sunamura¹,

Horikawa²

1974

Important physical parameters controlling sandy beach transformation were clarified on the basis of the result obtained by a laboratory test. They were not only wave steepness but also beach gradient and a ratio of sand size to wave length. These parameters enabled the previously obtained laboratory beach profiles to be classified into newly proposed three beach types. These parameters were also found to be effective in grouping the data of shoreline changes both in laboratories and in fields.