Energy Loss and Set-Up Due to Breaking of Random Waves

Battjes, J.A.; Janssen, J.P.F.M.

doi:10.1061/9780872621909.034

Cited by 661 publications

(402 citation statements)

References 3 publications

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“…In SWAN, as in other presently operating third-generation wave models, the whitecapping formulation is based on the pulse-based model of Hasselmann [1974] The process of depth-induced wave breaking is still poorly understood and little is known about its spectral modeling. In contrast to this, the total dissipation (i.e., integrated over the spectrum) due to this type of wave breaking can be well modeled with the dissipation of a bore applied to the breaking waves in a random field [Batties and Janssen, 1978 In deep water, quadruplet wave-wave interactions dominate the evolution of the spectrum. They transfer wave energy from the spectral peak to lower frequencies (thus moving the peak frequency to lower values) and to higher frequencies (where the energy is dissipated by whitecapping).…”

Section: Dissipationmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 1 more Smart Citation

A third‐generation wave model for coastal regions: 1. Model description and validation

Booij¹,

Ris²,

Holthuijsen³

1999

J. Geophys. Res.

3,657

1,949

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Abstract. A third-generation numerical wave model to compute random, short-crested waves in coastal regions with shallow water and ambient currents (Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN)) has been developed, implemented, and validated. The model is based on a Eulerian formulation of the discrete spectral balance of action density that accounts for refractive propagation over arbitrary bathymetry and current fields. It is driven by boundary conditions and local winds. As in other third-generation wave models, the processes of wind generation, whitecapping, quadruplet wave-wave interactions, and bottom dissipation are represented explicitly. In SWAN, triad wave-wave interactions and depth-induced wave breaking are added. In contrast to other third-generation wave models, the numerical propagation scheme is implicit, which implies that the computations are more economic in shallow water. The model results agree well with analytical solutions, laboratory observations, and (generalized) field observations.

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Section: Dissipationmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…To model the energy dissipation in random waves due to depth-induced breaking, the bore-based model of Battjes and Janssen [1978] is used. The mean rate of energy dissipation per unit horizontal area due to wave breaking S ds,br,to t is ex- …”

Section: Appendixmentioning

confidence: 99%

A third‐generation wave model for coastal regions: 1. Model description and validation

Booij¹,

Ris²,

Holthuijsen³

1999

J. Geophys. Res.

3,657

1,949

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…Depth-induced breaking dissipation is parameterized according to Battjes and Janssen [1978]. Wave heights are limited by the threshold height H max 5cD, with a constant breaker parameter c. The dissipation term S db due to depth-induced breaking is given by…”

Section: Wave Model Implementationmentioning

confidence: 99%

Effects of waves on coastal water dispersion in a small estuarine bay

et al. 2014

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[1] A three-dimensional wave-current model is used to investigate wave-induced circulations in a small estuarine bay and its impact on freshwater exchanges with the inner shelf, related to stratified river plume dispersion. Modeled salinity fields exhibit a lower salinity surface layer due to river outflows, with typical depth of 1 m inside the bay. The asymmetric wave forcing on the bay circulation, related to the local bathymetry, significantly impacts the river plumes. It is found that the transport initiated in the surf zone by the longshore current can oppose and thus reduce the primary outflow of freshwater through the bay inlets. Using the model to examine a high river runoff event occurring during a high-energy wave episode, waves are found to induce a 24 h delay in freshwater evacuation. At the end of the runoff event, waves have reduced the freshwater flux to the ocean by a factor 5, and the total freshwater volume inside the bay is increased by 40%. According to the model, and for this event, the effect of the surf zone current on the bay flushing is larger than that of the wind. The freshwater balance is sensitive to incident wave conditions. Maximum freshwater retention is found for intermediate offshore wave heights 1 m < H s < 2 m. For higher-energy waves, the increase in the longshore current reduces the retention, which is two times lower for H s 5 4 m than for H s 5 2 m.

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“…Bore turbulence is not a force and cannot be incorporated directly in the force balance on the right-hand side of (13). An estimate of the bore turbulence effect is defined by D/ h, the breaking wave energy dissipation per unit volume [Battjes and Janssen, 1978]…”

Section: Sheet Flow Layer Thicknessmentioning

confidence: 99%

A semianalytical model for sheet flow layer thickness with application to the swash zone

Lanckriet

Puleo

2015

JGR Oceans

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A new semianalytical model for the time-dependent thickness of the sheet flow layer that includes the effects of pressure gradients, bed slope, boundary layer growth, and bore turbulence is presented. The shear stress and boundary layer growth are computed using the boundary layer integral method. The model is expressed as two coupled ordinary differential equations that are solved numerically given a prescribed time series of free-stream velocity, horizontal pressure gradient and bore turbulence, which together represent the hydrodynamic forcing. The model was validated against two data sets of sheet flow layer thickness collected in oscillatory flow tunnels and one data set collected in the swash zone of a prototype-scale laboratory experiment. In the oscillatory flow tunnel data sets, sheet flow is mostly generated by shear stress, with pressure gradients providing an important secondary forcing around flow reversal. In the swash zone, pressure gradients and shear stresses alone are not sufficient to generate the large sheet flow layer thickness observed at the initial stages of uprush. Bore turbulence is most likely the dominant generation mechanism for this intense sheet flow.

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Energy Loss and Set-Up Due to Breaking of Random Waves

Cited by 661 publications

References 3 publications

A third‐generation wave model for coastal regions: 1. Model description and validation

A third‐generation wave model for coastal regions: 1. Model description and validation

Effects of waves on coastal water dispersion in a small estuarine bay

A semianalytical model for sheet flow layer thickness with application to the swash zone

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