Effects of waves on coastal water dispersion in a small estuarine bay

Delpey, Matthias; Ardhuin, Fabrice; Othéguy, Pantxika; Jouon, Aymeric

doi:10.1002/2013jc009466

Cited by 51 publications

(37 citation statements)

References 71 publications

(152 reference statements)

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“…In the future, an up-to-date methodology can be applied to resolve the vertical variation of wave-induced forces, as well as wave-induced vertical mixing, based on e.g. the generalised Lagrangian mean (GLM) theory implemented in the MOHID code (see Delpey et al, 2014). The test cases shown in this paper are only a preliminary demonstration of model potential, which is thought to be encouraging.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 87%

“…The wave-induced force was considered in the MOHID hydrodynamic module in previous studies to compute the effects of waves on sea level (Malhadas et al, 2009), water renewal in a coastal lagoon (Malhadas et al, 2010), and coastal water dispersion in an estuarine bay (Delpey et al, 2014).…”

Section: Hydrodynamic Modelmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The vertical turbulent viscosity is computed by the Global Ocean Turbulence Model (GOTM), which is coupled to MOHID and consists of a set of turbulence-closure models (Buchard et al, 1999;Villarreal et al, 2005). Effects of wave breaking on vertical turbulence can be taken into account through surface boundary conditions (Delpey et al, 2014).…”

Section: Hydrodynamic Modelmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…At the surface, fluxes of momentum from wind action and wave breaking can be considered (Delpey et al, 2014). At the bottom, the method proposed by Soulsby and Clarke (2005) to compute the bed shear stress was implemented in this work, consisting of a steady component due to currents together with an oscillatory component due to waves.…”

Section: Hydrodynamic Modelmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Modelling of sediment transport and morphological evolution under the combined action of waves and currents

Franz

Delpey²,

Brito³

et al. 2017

Ocean Sci.

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Abstract. Coastal defence structures are often constructed to prevent beach erosion. However, poorly designed structures may cause serious erosion problems in the downdrift direction. Morphological models are useful tools to predict such impacts and assess the efficiency of defence structures for different scenarios. Nevertheless, morphological modelling is still a topic under intense research effort. The processes simulated by a morphological model depend on model complexity. For instance, undertow currents are neglected in coastal area models (2DH), which is a limitation for simulating the evolution of beach profiles for long periods. Model limitations are generally overcome by predefining invariant equilibrium profiles that are allowed to shift offshore or onshore. A more flexible approach is described in this paper, which can be generalised to 3-D models. The present work is based on the coupling of the MOHID modelling system and the SWAN wave model. The impacts of different designs of detached breakwaters and groynes were simulated in a schematic beach configuration following a 2DH approach. The results of bathymetry evolution are in agreement with the patterns found in the literature for several existing structures. The model was also tested in a 3-D test case to simulate the formation of sandbars by undertow currents. The findings of this work confirmed the applicability of the MOHID modelling system to study sediment transport and morphological changes in coastal zones under the combined action of waves and currents. The same modelling methodology was applied to a coastal zone (Costa da Caparica) located at the mouth of a mesotidal estuary (Tagus Estuary, Portugal) to evaluate the hydrodynamics and sediment transport both in calm water conditions and during events of highly energetic waves. The MOHID code is available in the GitHub repository.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 87%

Section: Hydrodynamic Modelmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Hydrodynamic Modelmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Hydrodynamic Modelmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 2 more Smart Citations

Modelling of sediment transport and morphological evolution under the combined action of waves and currents

Franz

Delpey²,

Brito³

et al. 2017

Ocean Sci.

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“…Sejumlah parameter lainnya seperti gelombang, arus menyusur pantai, masukan dari daratan, hujan dan vegetasi turut mempengaruhi distribusi sedimen di perairan teluk (Verney et al, 2013;Delpey et al, 2014). Adanya perbedaan kondisi habitat bentik juga memberikan respon yang berbeda terhadap mekanisme pengendapan yang terjadi (Purnawan, 2015).…”

Section: Pendahuluanunclassified

Sediment Distribution Analysis in Balohan Bay, Sabang

Purnawan

Alamsyah

Setiawan

et al. 2017

J. Ilmu dan Teknologi Kelautan Tropis

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We investigated the sediment properties and distribution in Balohan Bay, which is located in southern Weh Island, Aceh Province. The aim of this research was to clarify the sediment distribution mechanism in the Balohan Bay using a statistical approach. Samples were collected on January 2016 using coring method. Sediment grain-size distribution from 14 stations was obtained using wet sieve analysis. A large amount of fine sand and very fine sand were found in Balohan Bay, as a result of several tributaries discharged in those areas. The sediment distribution in eastern stations showed an indication as a coarser size and a poorer sorted area, as they were adjacent to the steep cliff.

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The role of morphology and wave‐current interaction at tidal inlets: An idealized modeling analysis

2014

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The outflowing currents from tidal inlets are influenced both by the morphology of the ebbtide shoal and interaction with incident surface gravity waves. Likewise, the propagation and breaking of incident waves are affected by the morphology and the strength and structure of the outflowing current. The 3-D Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system is applied to numerically analyze the interaction between currents, waves, and bathymetry in idealized inlet configurations. The bathymetry is found to be a dominant controlling variable. In the absence of an ebb shoal and with weak wave forcing, a narrow outflow jet extends seaward with little lateral spreading. The presence of an ebb-tide shoal produces significant pressure gradients in the region of the outflow, resulting in enhanced lateral spreading of the jet. Incident waves cause lateral spreading and limit the seaward extent of the jet, due both to conversion of wave momentum flux and enhanced bottom friction. The interaction between the vorticity of the outflow jet and the wave stokes drift is also an important driving force for the lateral spreading of the plume. For weak outflows, the outflow jet is actually enhanced by strong waves when there is a channel across the bar, due to the ''return current'' effect. For both strong and weak outflows, waves increase the alongshore transport in both directions from the inlet due to the wave-induced setup over the ebb shoal. Wave breaking is more influenced by the topography of the ebb shoal than by wave-current interaction, although strong outflows show intensified breaking at the head of the main channel.

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Effects of waves on coastal water dispersion in a small estuarine bay

Cited by 51 publications

References 71 publications

Modelling of sediment transport and morphological evolution under the combined action of waves and currents

Modelling of sediment transport and morphological evolution under the combined action of waves and currents

Sediment Distribution Analysis in Balohan Bay, Sabang

The role of morphology and wave‐current interaction at tidal inlets: An idealized modeling analysis

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