Effect of Staple Strength on Spinning Performance and Yarn Quality of Superfine Wools

Abstract

A processing trial was conducted at CSIRO comparing three batches of 17 µm, superfine fleece wool, collected from sale lot samples and matched for fiber properties but not staple strength. The three batches were compiled from auction display samples to have average staple strengths of 24, 32 and 43 N/ktex and were converted to top, yarn, and plain weave fabric. We demonstrate that, similar to previous research with mid-micrometer and fine wools sourced from commercial lots over a broad range of sources typically offered for auction and assembled as a consignment, staple strength has little influence on processing and product performance beyond top for superfine wool. We also compare our processing results to the predictive tools available to the industry (e.g. TEAM-3 and Yarnspec). The discounts applied to low staple strength raw wool should primarily be a reflection of commercial factors, for example supply and demand, rather than on objectively measured performance and technical attributes of the top and yarn. Economic benefits in topmaking may be possible through the selection and use of discounted, low staple strength wools with minimal impact on the technical attributes for yarn and fabric.

Effects of Staple Strength and Raw Wool Blend Make-Up on Processing and Properties from Top to Fabric

“…The fine wool for this investigation was sourced from selected display samples at the Australian Wool Handlers auction facility in Melbourne, Australia, as described previously [9]. The samples were collected during August and September 2007.…”

“…Because the display samples were in a relatively open state, good blending prior to scouring was carried out manually, as described previously by Prins and Pierlot [9]. Prior to scouring, the blended wool was laid out and slice sampled into the scour feed hopper.…”

“…In a previous investigation, Prins and Pierlot [9] used three superfine 17 µm fleece wool batches matched for fibre properties except staple strength, and found that although staple strength in the range of 24-43 N/ktex influenced topmaking performance, its influence diminished beyond the top stage. They reported that staple strength had little direct influence on spinning performance and yarn quality.…”

“…Prins and Pierlot [9] have summarised this previous work, so in this paper we highlight the following key points from that summary:…”