Effect of Some Fabric and Sewing Conditions on Apparel Seam Characteristics

Abstract

Many previous studies showed that seam appearance as well as performance depends on the interrelationship of fabrics, threads, and the stitch/seam selection and lastly on the sewing conditions, which include the needle size, needle thread tension, stitch density, and the appropriate operation and maintenance of the sewing machine. Present investigation elucidates the effect of blend composition, sewing thread size, and sewing needle parameters on garment seam characteristics (i.e., seam strength, seam strength efficiency, seam puckering, seam stiffness, and drape coefficient). The seam quality characterization is studied through the L9 orthogonal design methodology. In good quality apparels, compatibility of the seams with the functional requirement is very important for serviceability and life of the apparel. Reversibility as well as repairing of seams in the apparel is very limited in the condition of seam failure. Seam strength efficiency is higher for the uniform fiber matrix in the structure of fabrics. The polyester dominated suiting fabrics give minimum seam stiffness because polyester component has low flexural rigidity. The cotton dominated suiting fabrics have less seam puckering due to increase in fabric stiffness.

Functional Properties and Seam Puckering on Cotton Shirt Influenced by Laundering

“…Factors aff ecting seam pucker are sewing thread and fabric characteristics, stitch formation, sewing thread tension, fabric feeding and seam type [5]. Seam thread properties, sewing parameters and their compatibility during the sewing have been investigated in several papers [6][7][8][9][10][11][12]. Th e eff ect of sewing parameters on seam pucker was examined most frequently [13,14].…”

Formation of the package of materials of adaptive multifunctional clothing

“…The parameters affecting the quality of the threaded seams are the seam strength, its elongation, the seam stiffness when bending, etc. [24][25][26][27].…”

Effect of Different Sewing Parameters on Lockstitch Seam Strength for Denim Fabric

“…Seam durability can be measured through seam efficiency where seam strength is the driving factor [8]. As the standard of any garments is dependent on the quality of seam, the applied seams to make the garments have to fulfill the above mentioned criteria, among which seam strength and appearance of the seams have big importance [9], [10].…”

“…Rengasamy et al [13] and Nayak et al [14] showed the influence of types of sewing thread on the seam efficiency. Impact of linear density of sewing thread has been studied by different researchers [10], [15], [16] and it has been found that the linear density of sewing thread is one of the most influencing factors for the seam strength. Barbulov et al [11] studied the impact of stitch density and of the type of sewing thread on seam strength.…”