Effect of hold depth and grip technique on maximal finger forces in rock climbing

Abstract

The aim of this study was to understand how the commonly used climbing-specific grip techniques and hold depths influence the finger force capacities. Ten advanced climbers performed maximal voluntary force on four different hold depths (from 1 to 4 cm) and in two force directions (antero-posterior and vertical) using three grip techniques (slope, half crimp and full crimp). A specially designed platform instrumented with a 6-degrees-of-freedom (DoF) force/torque sensor was used to record force values. Results showed that the maximal vertical forces differed significantly according to the hold depth and the grip technique (ranged from 350.8 N to 575.7 N). The maximal vertical forces increased according to the hold depth but the form of this increase differed depending on grip technique. These results seemed to be more associated with finger-hold contact/interaction than with internal biomechanical factors. Similar results were revealed for antero-posterior forces (ranged from 69.9 N to 138.0 N) but, it was additionally noted that climbers have different hand-forearm posture strategies with slope and crimp grip techniques when applying antero-posterior forces. This point is important as it could influence the body position adopted during climbing according to the chosen grip technique. For trainers and designers, a polynomial regression model was proposed in order to predict the mean maximal force based on hold depth and adopted grip technique.

Coordination in Climbing: Effect of Skill, Practice and Constraints Manipulation

“…Ineligible articles (n = 21) were excluded with reason (see Fig. 1 below), of these, fifteen studies fulfilled primary criteria but were excluded for not fulfil secondary criteria [47,63], (experiment 1 [66]), [67][68][69][70][71][72][73][74][75][76][77]. Qualitative synthesis of the consequent 42 studies was carried out (see Fig.…”

Forearm muscle oxygenation during sustained isometric contractions in rock climbers

“…1). The 3D-SAC was configured with a 23 mm deep wooden hold with a radius of 12 mm (Amca, Vigouroux, Aritan & Berton, 2012;Baláš, Mrskoč, Panáčková & Draper, 2015), attached to a 3D force sensor (measuring range ± 2 kN, comprehensive accuracy 0.5%, sample rate 125 Hz). The intensity and duration of the effort and the rest intervals during each repetition were programmed into the device.…”

Analysis of Tests Evaluating Sport Climbers’ Strength and Isometric Endurance

“…Analysis of the available literature indicates a great need for scientific research focused on training of climbers (Amca et al, 2012; Philippe et al, 2012). Thus, an increasing number of studies on the physiology, biomechanics and biochemistry of this sports discipline may be observed.…”