Early evidence (late 2nd millennium BCE) of plant-based dyeing of textiles from Timna, Israel

Abstract

In this article, we focus on the analysis of dyed textile fragments uncovered at an early Iron Age (11th-10th centuries BCE) copper smelting site during new excavations in the Timna Valley conducted by the Central Timna Valley (CTV) Project, as well as those found by the Arabah Expedition at the Hathor Temple (Site 200), dated to the Late Bronze/early Iron Ages (13th-11th centuries BCE). Analysis by HPLC-DAD identified two organic dyestuffs, Rubia tinctorum L. and indigotin, from a plant source (probably Isatis tinctoria L.). They are among the earliest plants known in the dyeing craft and cultivated primarily for this purpose. This study provides the earliest evidence of textiles dyed utilizing a chemical dyeing process based on an industrial dyeing plant from the Levant. Moreover, our results shed new light on the society operating the copper mines at the time, suggesting the existence of an elite that was interested in these high quality textiles and invested efforts in procuring them by long-distance trade.

Early evidence of royal purple dyed textile from Timna Valley (Israel)

“…The identification of the early Iron Age society of Timna Valley and the nearby regions with biblical Edom is discussed elsewhere ([ 117 ] and references therein)]. The discovery of true purple-dyed textiles renders further support to the suggestion that this society was part of a kingdom (the Edomite Kingdom) already in this period [ 117 – 119 ], as it provides strong evidence for the presence of elite (see also a study based on diet [ 120 ], and direct evidence for long-distance trade connections (see also [ 68 , 118 ]). There is little doubt that the expensive true-purple garments were used as a marker for social status, and had a role in establishing a hierarchical social structure in the fledgling kingdom.…”

“…The new evidence also provides insights into elite “fashion”—in early Iron Age Timna and probably beyond. In addition to the decorations in red and blue dyes from plant sources [ 68 ], we can now conclude the use of decorations with the threads of the prestigious true purple. Colored clothing was the preference of elite in the Ancient Near Eastern societies [ 70 ]; yet, we know very little about the variety of decoration choices.…”

“…The identification of dyes was based on a database containing known chemical components and wool that was dyed with known dyestuffs and analyzed by the authors prior to the current Timna research [ 68 ], and on a series of analyses that were done by the authors in a previous study of wool that was dyed with each of the murex species ( Hexaplex trunculus , Bolinus brandaris and Stramonita haemastoma ), and analyzed under the same conditions as the archaeological samples ([ 58 , 61 ]; S1 Appendix )…”

“…017 was selected from two threads with a Z-ply (s2Z), 63.8 mm long and 4.9 mm wide, with a pink-purple edge ( Fig 3 ). It is difficult to know the specific function of this string but we can assume that it does not come from a rough textile, but from a decorative fringe or a tassel, both common in the Timna textiles assemblage [ 68 , 69 ] and in the ancient world in general [ 70 , 71 ]. Sample no.…”

Multi-functional effects of textiles dyed with madder roots powder (Rubiatinctoria)

“…Rubiatinctorum also called madderis one of the oldest dye used in paintings, for textiles and leather dyeing [1][2]. The extract of madder roots contains up 36 anthraquinone compounds [3].…”