Dyes on Archaeological Textiles: Analyzing Alizarin and Its Degradation Products

Ahn, Cheunsoon; Obendorf, S. Kay

doi:10.1177/004051750407401102

Cited by 44 publications

(25 citation statements)

References 20 publications

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“…Different research efforts were carried out to identify dye in museum textiles using instrumental methods such as thin layer chromatography (Schweppe, 1989) and gas chromatography (Ahn & Obendorf, 2004;Casas-Catalán & Doménech-Carbó, 2005;Colombini et al, 2007;Grosjean et al, 1987). TOF-SIMS and MALDI-TOF methods were recommended as the nondestructive methods which identify the molecular ion of the pigment by ion sputtering the sample surface (Lee et al, 2008;Soltzberg et al, 2007).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Simultaneous Analysis of the Coloring Compounds in Indigo, Phellodendron bark, and Madder Dye Using HPLC-DAD-MS

Ahn¹,

Zeng²,

Obendorf³

2013

Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles

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Indigotin, indirubin, berberine, palmatine, alizarin, and purpurin are major pigments of indigo plant, Phellodendron bark, and madder. The six pigments were examined using the HPLC-DAD-MS instrument for the purpose of the simultaneous detection of the pigments in a single sample run. The HPLC-DAD-MS method examined the individual pigment solutions in DMSO, a solution containing 6 pigments, and the DMSO extract of the silk dyed with a dye solution of 5 pigments excluding indirubin. The retention times of the HPLC chromatograms, λmax of the uv-vis absorption bands in the DAD analyses, and the molecular ions detected for the compound peaks in the MSD analyses were consistent throughout the analyses of individual pigment solutions, mixed pigment solutions, and dye extracted from silk dyeing. The developed instrumental method of the simultaneous detection of six pigments can identify dye in an exhumed textile if the textile is dyed using any one (or multiple) pigments of indigo, Phellodendron bark, or madder plant.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Simultaneous Analysis of the Coloring Compounds in Indigo, Phellodendron bark, and Madder Dye Using HPLC-DAD-MS

Ahn¹,

Zeng²,

Obendorf³

2013

Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles

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“…Dye analysis is usually performed by liquid chromatography with a diode array detector [6][7][8][9][10][11], but nowadays, mass detection is becoming increasingly important [12][13][14][15][16][17][18][19][20]. A successful approach to identify natural dyes requires that, prior to the chromatographic analysis, an adequate analytical methodology is used for their extraction from the textile fibres.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Extracting natural dyes from wool—an evaluation of extraction methods

et al. 2011

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The efficiency of eight different procedures used for the extraction of natural dyes was evaluated using contemporary wool samples dyed with cochineal, madder, woad, weld, brazilwood and logwood. Comparison was made based on the LC-DAD peak areas of the natural dye's main components which had been extracted from the wool samples. Among the tested methods, an extraction procedure with Na 2 EDTA in water/DMF (1:1, v/v) proved to be the most suitable for the extraction of the studied dyes, which presented a wide range of chemical structures. The identification of the natural dyes used in the making of an eighteenth century Arraiolos carpet was possible using the Na 2 EDTA/DMF extraction of the wool embroidery samples and an LC-DAD-MS methodology. The effectiveness of the Na 2 EDTA/DMF extraction method was particularly observed in the extraction of weld dye components. Nine flavone derivatives previously identified in weld extracts could be identified in a single historical sample, confirming the use of this natural dye in the making of Arraiolos carpets. Indigo and brazilwood were also identified in the samples, and despite the fact that these natural dyes were referred in the historical recipes of Arraiolos dyeing, it is the first time that the use of brazilwood is confirmed. Mordant analysis by ICP-MS identified the widespread use of alum in the dyeing process, but in some samples with darker hues, high amounts of iron were found instead.

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“…The data from such experiment can then be used as the pool of comparative standards for investigation the dye in archaeological textiles. Under such premise, previous researches on alizarin and curcumin have been successfully carried out (Ahn & Obendorf, 2004, 2007. And as part of the continuing effort for the identification of dye in archaeological textiles, the purpose of the present research was to examine the degradation behavior of berberine using gas chromatography mass spectrometry (GC-MS).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Following the previous method of analysis (Ahn & Obendorf, 2004, 2007, the thermal degradation in 100 o C oven temperature was chosen based on the researches simulating natural ageing of dyed textiles via accelerated thermal treatment (Brushwood, 1988;Needles et al, 1986;Needles & Nowak, 1989). Needles et al (1986) examined burial-induced color and strength changes in wool and silk fabrics and found that alizarin dyed fabrics became extremely dark and changed shade toward purple.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Examination of Berberine Dye using GC-MS after Selective Degradation Treatments

Ahn¹

2009

Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles

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The degradation behavior of berberine is examined using GC-MS to select the fingerprint products that can be used to identify berberine dye in badly faded archaeological textiles. A total of 100 o C thermal and H2O2/UV/O2 degradation systems were used to degrade berberine chloride 0.1% solution up to 408 hours. The samples were analyzed using the GC-MS. Dihydroberberine, 2-pteridinamine, 6,7-dimethyl-N-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]-, and 8-methoxy-11-[3-methylbutyl]-11H-indolo[3,2-c]-quinoline, 5-oxide were detected as the major products of thermal degradation and identified as the fingerprint products for berberine dye at the early stage of degradation. Isobenzofuran-1,3-dione,4,5-dimethoxy-, 9H-fluorene,3,6-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-, 1,3-dioxolo[4,5-g]isoquinolin-5(6H)-one,7,8-dihydro-, and 3-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyanisole were detected as the major products generated by the H2O2/UV/O2 degradation and identified as the fingerprint products for berberine dye under severe degradation conditions.

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Dyes on Archaeological Textiles: Analyzing Alizarin and Its Degradation Products

Cited by 44 publications

References 20 publications

Simultaneous Analysis of the Coloring Compounds in Indigo, Phellodendron bark, and Madder Dye Using HPLC-DAD-MS

Simultaneous Analysis of the Coloring Compounds in Indigo, Phellodendron bark, and Madder Dye Using HPLC-DAD-MS

Extracting natural dyes from wool—an evaluation of extraction methods

Examination of Berberine Dye using GC-MS after Selective Degradation Treatments

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