Development of Novel Cosmetic Base Using Sterol Surfactant. I. Preparation of Novel Emulsified Particles with Sterol Surfactant+

Abstract

We have developed various kinds of ultrafine emulsifying methods using random copolymer of polyoxyethylene (POE) / polyoxypropylene (POP) dimethyl ether [EPDME]. Among ultrafine emulsions made by these methods, it was revealed that an O/W type emulsion, which had prepared with EPDME, sterol surfactant, and polar oils, had a unique structure that had a lamellar structure on the surface of emulsified particles. To clarify the character of the particles and the mechanism of the emulsification, investigation using small angle X-ray scattering (SAXS) measurement and the phase diagram of the emulsion system was done. FF-TEM observation indicated that a few lamellar layers were deposited from the oily ingredients on the surface of the emulsified particle. It was also presumed that the lamellar structure was formed with sterol surfactant and polar oil. The phase diagram analysis suggested that EPDME could form emulsified particles having lamellar structure on the surface of the particle with hydrophilic sterol surfactant in polar oils.

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“…4a) indicated the formation of a peculiar system that is not a simple gel and not a genuine liquid crystal, but a gel system that incorporates liquid crystals inside. These are commonly lamellar structures that are formed around the inner core of the vesicles (Manosroi et al, 2003;Oka et al, 2008). This characteristic structure can make the system formed more stable by reducing the possibility of vesicles aggregation and fusion.…”

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“…The morphology of EO30-PS micelle can be observed in the phase diagram in 9) . Although almost all alkyl surfactants with a high HLB number can form lamellar liquid crystalline phases at high concentrations, EO30-PS (90 wt% with 10 wt% water) failed to do this, because it is in a crystal state at the high concentration.…”

“…Compared to a conventional aqueous nonionic surfactant system, the intermediate R 1 region of ChEO n was extremely wide 8) . Moreover, in our previous study, it was reported that O/W emulsion prepared by a surfactant with phytosterol as the hydrophilic moiety exhibited a unique morphology with a lamellar structure on the surface of the emulsified particles 9) . It is suggested that the unique self-organized structure was because of the large and bulky planar structure of the sterol On the other hand, sparingly soluble compounds including ultraviolet ray (UV) absorbers and medicines (e.g., indomethacine and finasteride) have been used after first dissolving them mainly in polar oils.…”

“…In a previous study 9) , fine emulsions comprising the stratigraphic structure of DIG and EO30-PS were obtained and confirmed by FF-TEM. High crystallinity of phytosterol structure might probably lead to such a unique phenomenon.…”

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“…So, what happens is that it is possible to find a peculiar system that is not a simple emulsion and not a genuine liquid crystal, but an emulsioned system that contains liquid crystals, commonly lamellar structures, that are formed around of the inner phase of the emulsion (Oka et al, 2008), making difficult the coalescence, flocculation and the separation of the oily and water phases, what makes the system formed more stable than a simple emulsion (Figures 18 and 19). Flocculation is defined as the formation of aggregates of droplets of an emulsion under the influence of interparticle colloidal forces which are net attractive (Dickinson, 1992) and the formation of lamellar structures avoid or prevent the occurrence of this phenomenon.…”