Cross-gender extension potential of luxury brands: a semiotic analysis

Abstract

Faced with the need to constantly find new growth drivers, luxury brands increasingly use cross-gender extensions (extension from the female to the male market and vice versa). Because of the lack of research on this topic, the aim of this article is to analyse the potential for cross-gender extension. We adopt a long-term perspective by analysing the discourse being directly produced by brands. We use a structural semiotic approach to define brand narratives and contracts and their level of openness. Seven luxury brands have been studied: Audemars Piguet, Cartier, Chanel, Dior, Hugo Boss, Montblanc and Rolex. The results show that they do not all have the same legitimacy for extension from the male to female market and vice versa. Specifically, in the context of cross-gender extensions, rather than brand extension potential (to new product categories), the narratives related to contracts of determination (linked to characters, gender and state) can determine the success or the failure of cross-gender extensions. We find that brands anchored in open determination contracts, i.e. those whose values are desired by both sexes (men and women), will be extended more easily from one market to another.

It is better with a shade of blue! Consumer evaluation of unisex extension of brands

“…In our view, since the unisex extension from a gendered brand involves a change in target segment from one specific gender to both the genders, the gender image of the parent brand, whether masculine or feminine, is an important variable to capture. Based on the social identity theory, our finding that unisex extensions from a masculine brand versus a feminine brand will find more acceptance finds support from a recent study on cross‐gender brand extension that found that brands that have more values desired by both the sexes, will see the easy extension from one market to the other (Veg‐Sala & Roux, 2018). Finally, we find that for products higher on symbolic value, women’s evaluation of unisex extension becomes more favorable whereas for men it deteriorates.…”

“…This stems from the need to adhere to what a more valued biological gender identity stands for and to protect the in-group status as suggested by the social identity theory, Past studies have investigated the phenomenon of cross-gender consumption, that is, how males evaluate feminine products and vice versa (Alreck, 1994;Morris & Cundiff, 1971;Stuteville, 1971). More recent research has been organized around the cross-gender brand extension and its evaluation (Azar et al, 2018;Jung & Lee, 2006;Ulrich, 2013;Veg-Sala & Roux, 2018;Yuen et al, 2021). Most women are reasonably accepting of masculine symbols but men do not like to be associated with feminine cues (Alreck, 1994;Neale et al, 2016).…”

“…Additionally, since the unisex brand extension is trying to move beyond its focus on a particular gender, it is important to understand the differences in the extension evaluation between men and women. Studies on the cross‐gender brand extension also indicate that unlike typical brand extensions into other product categories, variables such as consumer gender and brand gender are more likely to determine the success of the extension into the women’s from the market for men, and vice versa (Jung & Lee, 2006; Ulrich, 2013; Veg‐Sala & Roux, 2018). Moreover, marketing research centered on identity‐based theory or constructs usually examines how consumers distinguish between market offerings as something either representing their identity or not, with consumers typically preferring brands that help them maintain or express their identity (Kleine et al, 1995; Lam et al., 2010).…”

In search of fit or authenticity? A product-type consumer decision in celebrity brand extensions

“…Future research should focus on one celebrity and consider his or her individual characteristics and personality as potential influences on the outcomes. The analysis of cross-gender extension potential is not novel in the branding domain (Veg-Sala and Roux, 2018). However, it is yet to be researched in the context of celebrity brands.…”

Neural activities during the evaluation of luxury goods-to-service brand extension: An event-related potentials (ERPs) study.

“…To the best of our knowledge, this study is the first to apply the measurement of ERPs to investigate the aforementioned evaluation process focusing on luxury brands and goods-to-service brand extension strategy. Using brand extension strategies has become the fundamental method of developing most luxury brands (Veg-Sala & Roux, 2018) and enhancing its effectiveness is important. Behavioral results indicate that HF condition leads to a higher AR than LF condition.…”