Coupling cross-shore and longshore sediment transport to model storm response along a mixed sand-gravel coast under varying wave directions

Bergillos, Rafael J.; Masselink, Gerd; Ortega-Sánchez, Miguel

doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2017.09.009

Cited by 58 publications

(22 citation statements)

References 62 publications

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“…For the mixed sand–gravel coastline of Playa Granada, Spain (Bergillos et al ., ,b), the VR2014 equation was found to accurately reproduce volumetric change, if the coarsest sediment fraction was used (as opposed to D 50 ). This is the opposite result to the observations at Start Bay and may be related to the complexities of mixed sediment classes and nourishment at Playa Granada (Bergillos et al ., ,b).…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Gravel beaches are common throughout the mid‐ to high‐latitudes, and while well‐established values exist in relation to transport of sand‐sized sediment (Schoonees and Theron, ), observations of coarse‐grained longshore transport are limited to only a handful of studies (Van Wellen et al ., ; Van Rijn, ; Bergillos et al ., ,b). This is due to the difficulties in working on gravel beaches (Van Wellen et al ., ) and a lack of field studies that combine hydrodynamic observations with sediment transport rates.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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High‐efficiency gravel longshore sediment transport and headland bypassing over an extreme wave event

McCarroll

Masselink

Wiggins

et al. 2019

Earth Surf Processes Landf

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Gravel beaches are common throughout the high latitudes, but few studies have examined gravel transport rates, in particular at high energy levels, and no studies have quantified gravel transport around headlands. Here, we present the first complete sediment budget, including supra‐, inter‐ and sub‐tidal regions of the beach, across multiple headland‐separated gravel embayments, combined with hydrodynamic observations, over an extreme storm sequence, representing at least a 1‐in‐50‐year event. Unprecedented erosion was observed (~400 m3 m−1, −6 m vertical), with alongshore flux of 2 × 105 m3, equivalent to annual rates. Total system volume change was determined to the depth of closure and then used to calculate alongshore flux rates. Alongshore wave power was obtained from a wave transformation model. For an open section of coastline, we derive a transport coefficient (CERC formula) of KHs = 0.255 ± 0.05, exceeding estimates in lower‐energy conditions by a factor of 5 or more. We apply this coefficient to rocky segments of the shoreline, determining rates of headland bypass from 0 to 31% of potential flux, controlled by headland extent and toe depth. Our results support the hypothesis that gravel is transported more efficiently at higher energy levels and that a variable rate or threshold approach may be required. Complete coverage and varying morphology make this dataset uniquely suited to improving model predictions of gravel shoreline change. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

High‐efficiency gravel longshore sediment transport and headland bypassing over an extreme wave event

McCarroll

Masselink

Wiggins

et al. 2019

Earth Surf Processes Landf

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“…Alongshore transport of sediment as a result of opposing wave directions, especially following storm events, can lead to an imbalance of erosion and accretion at embayment extremities. This can leave coastal communities and infrastructure vulnerable to damage from future storm events [2,3], seasonal changes in wave climate [4] and atmospheric changes over decadal timescales [5]. To mitigate these impacts, identification of rotational beach behaviour, its drivers and controls is required for planning and management of the coastal zone, given future predictions of sea level rise [6], increased storminess [7] and coastal squeeze [8].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Regionally-Coherent Embayment Rotation: Behavioural Response to Bi-Directional Waves and Atmospheric Forcing

Wiggins

Scott

Masselink

et al. 2019

JMSE

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Bi-directional wave climates often drive beach rotation, increasing erosional risk at semi-sheltered locations. Identification of rotation and forcing mechanisms is vital to future coastal defence. In this study, regional investigation of modelled wave data revealed strong bi-directionality between dominant south-westerly and sub-dominant easterly waves for 14 offshore locations along the length of the south coast of England, U.K. South-westerly wave power was well correlated to positive phases of the West Europe Pressure Anomaly (WEPA), whilst easterly wave power was well correlated with negative phases of the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO). Additionally, decadal records of beach morphological change and associated wave forcing, were investigated for 22 coastal sites across the same region. Significant rotational behaviour was identified at 11 sites, leading to the creation of a rotation index. Beach rotation was attributed to shoreline angle, with the strongest rotation occurring at south-east-facing beaches, with high obliquity to dominant south-westerly waves. The beach rotation index was well correlated with the normalized balance of wave power from opposing south-westerly and easterly directions. Direct correlations between beach rotation and WEPA at two sites showed that future forecasts of atmospheric indices may allow prediction of rotational beach state, at seasonal scales.

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“…Egbert and Erofeeva 2002) and hydrodynamic and wave propagation models . Coastal erosion has been studied by means of one-line type models or morphodynamic models fed by topography, bathymetry, wave and tide conditions, and sediment properties (Bergillos et al 2017a(Bergillos et al , 2017b. Sea level rise can be monitored by means of LISCOAST and ICDC (Brown et al 2019).…”

Section: Current Ris Scientific and Stakeholder Collaboration Networmentioning

confidence: 99%

Connecting research infrastructures, scientific and sectorial networks to support integrated management of Mediterranean coastal and rural areas

Martínez‐López

Bergillos

Bonet

et al. 2019

Environ. Res. Lett.

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Many Mediterranean coastal areas encounter similar problems and gaps between science, governance, and implementation of sustainable management at local-regional scales. There is often a lack of coordination between management of inland and coastal areas, and a lack of integrated land-sea data and knowledge exchange to support transitions towards sustainable development and synergies between rural and coastal areas. In this paper, we illustrate the main challenges to reach a sustainable development of coastal-rural areas related to data availability, knowledge exchange and governance, which could be tackled by coupling regional and international research infrastructures (RIs) with scientific and stakeholder collaboration networks to facilitate knowledge exchange and co-creation of solutions. We first identified the main challenges in sustainable development of coastal-rural areas followed by a review of major existing RIs, scientific knowledge and collaboration networks that can help support integrated management of Mediterranean coastal zones. Based on this, we developed recommendations for a better integration of RIs and collaboration networks in the management of coastal-rural areas, including (1) the creation of local networks to facilitate periodical meetings between all sectors involved and to connect science and policy actors and (2) setting up local RIs that support the data processing and the use of regional and international RIs by scientists and policy stakeholders.

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Coupling cross-shore and longshore sediment transport to model storm response along a mixed sand-gravel coast under varying wave directions

Abstract: Coupling cross-shore and longshore sediment transport to model storm response along a mixed sand-gravel coast under varying wave directions Bergillos, RJ

Cited by 58 publications

References 62 publications

High‐efficiency gravel longshore sediment transport and headland bypassing over an extreme wave event

High‐efficiency gravel longshore sediment transport and headland bypassing over an extreme wave event

Regionally-Coherent Embayment Rotation: Behavioural Response to Bi-Directional Waves and Atmospheric Forcing

Connecting research infrastructures, scientific and sectorial networks to support integrated management of Mediterranean coastal and rural areas

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