Confocal Raman spectroscopy is suitable to assess hair cleansing‐derived skin dryness on human scalp

Kourbaj, Ghaith; Bielfeldt, S.; Kruse, Iryna; Wilhelm, Klaus‐Peter

doi:10.1111/srt.13157

Cited by 5 publications

(3 citation statements)

References 24 publications

(49 reference statements)

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“…What might contribute to this phenomenon? One possibility is the washout of natural moisturizing factors (NMF) at the surface of the skin, reported previously using ICRS profiling [36,37]. Reduced hygroscopicity of corneocytes in the surface of the SC would lead to a corresponding decrease in corneocyte hydration, resulting in compromised desquamation.…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

What defines dry skin? Correlating a range of skin hydration parameters with In Vivo Confocal Raman Spectroscopy

Crowther,

Matts

2024

Intern J of Cosmetic Sci

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ObjectiveWhile there are a wide range of approaches for the assessment of skin hydration, it is not always clear how data from them relate to one another or to the skin itself. With the development of in vivo Confocal Raman Spectroscopy (ICRS), it has become possible to measure water concentration as a function of protein/depth within the stratum corneum (SC). This article reports a comparison between electrical skin hydration measures/visual/optical grading and water concentration profiles measured using ICRS, to better understand the relationship between these approaches.MethodsSC hydration of lower‐leg skin with varying degrees of dryness was assessed using visual grading (live and from digital images), Corneometer®, Visioscan and ICRS. In addition, a custom fingerprint sensor was used to image surface capacitance (as a surrogate of SC hydration), and SC barrier function was assessed using evaporimetry (to measure trans‐epidermal water loss; TEWL).ResultsSignificant correlations were observed between a number of different skin grading/measurement approaches and ICRS data. ICRS hydration profiles also revealed a region near the SC surface with a relatively flat water profile in dry skin subjects.ConclusionsThe advent of quantitative in vivo analytical techniques such as ICRS, which can be used in a clinical setting, has enabled greater insight into more conventional approaches for assessing skin dryness. While traditional skin grading and biophysical methods for measuring skin hydration have varying degrees of correlation with one another, they also provide comparatively unique information about different regions within the SC. This should enable a more informed approach to product development in the future.

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Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

What defines dry skin? Correlating a range of skin hydration parameters with In Vivo Confocal Raman Spectroscopy

Crowther,

Matts

2024

Intern J of Cosmetic Sci

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“…The advantage of the noninvasive and nondestructive in vivo approach is that penetration in and across the true in situ barrier can be investigated taking into account different subjects including aged subjects and children and different skin types and several ethnicities. Further, the skin location that should be treated, even scalp and axilla [27,28], can be investigated.…”

Section: Discussion Of the Crs Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Assessment of penetration and permeation of caffeine by confocal Raman spectroscopy in vivo and ex vivo by tape stripping

Kourbaj

Gaiser

Bielfeldt

et al. 2022

Intern J of Cosmetic Sci

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Objective: Tape stripping is an often-used non-invasive destructive method to investigate the skin penetration of a substance. In recent years, however, the suitability of confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) as a non-invasive method of nondestructive examination of the skin has become increasingly apparent. In this study, we compared invasion and depletion penetration and permeation kinetics of a 2% caffeine solution with and without 1,2-pentanediol as a penetration enhancer measured with CRS and tape stripping.Methods: Porcine skin was used for tape stripping and human skin for CRS. 2% caffeine solution was applied to the skin for different incubation times. Human skin was then examined by CRS while caffeine was extracted from porcine skin and quantified via reverse-phase HPLC. Fluxes were also measured and calculated by sum of the total amounts of caffeine penetrated into the skin.Results: Without penetration enhancers, there is hardly any difference between the penetration profiles of the two measurement methods for invasion, but the curves for depletion are different. Furthermore, the calculated flux values for the invasion are almost identical, but for the depletion the tape stripping values are about twice as high as the CRS values. Conclusion:The relevance of conducting invasion and depletion studies became clear and was able to show the still existing problems in the comparability of CRS and tape stripping.

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“…Shampoos contain surfactants that remove lipids during routine skin [86] and hair washing. The ability of anionic surfactants to remove lipids from hair depends on the surfactant structure, concentration, agitation, temperature, time, and other factors [78].…”

Section: Effect Of Surfactants On Hair Lipid Depletionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Hair Lipid Structure: Effect of Surfactants

et al. 2023

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Human hair fibres are mainly comprised of proteins (>90%) and lipids (1–9%), which are characterised as exogenous or endogenous, depending on whether they originate from sebaceous glands or hair matrix cells, respectively. Exogenous lipids consist of free fatty acids (FFAs), triglycerides, cholesterol (CH), wax esters, and squalene. Endogenous hair lipids comprise FFAs, CH, ceramides, glycosylceramides, cholesterol sulfate, and 18-methyleicosanoic acid. Lipids were demonstrated to be fundamental against damage and maintenance of healthy hair. Several studies have evaluated the effects of hair lipid content and have shown how hair properties were altered when lipids were removed by solvent extraction. The effect of surfactants on hair lipids is difficult to determine, as the complex structure of the cell membrane complex makes it difficult to determine where surfactants act. Shampoos and conditioners contain surfactants that remove lipids during routine cleansing of hair. However, shampooing does not completely remove all free lipids from the surface layers. The effect of surfactants on the alteration and removal of structural lipids is poorly developed, and there is no consensus on the results. Further research on the lipid composition of the hair could provide information on the penetration pathways of surfactants to improve effectiveness and limit possible damage.

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Confocal Raman spectroscopy is suitable to assess hair cleansing‐derived skin dryness on human scalp

Cited by 5 publications

References 24 publications

What defines dry skin? Correlating a range of skin hydration parameters with In Vivo Confocal Raman Spectroscopy

What defines dry skin? Correlating a range of skin hydration parameters with In Vivo Confocal Raman Spectroscopy

Assessment of penetration and permeation of caffeine by confocal Raman spectroscopy in vivo and ex vivo by tape stripping

Hair Lipid Structure: Effect of Surfactants

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