Compression and surface properties of Mongolian cashmere tops related to tactile characterization

Abstract

The high quality of cashmere contributes to the superior handle of luxury fabrics. However, there is little understanding of the subtle differences among cashmere samples that induce differentiation of the resulting soft luxury fabrics. In this study, we focused on developing an objective way to simulate the hand touch of an expert by applying low compression pressure and frictional force on a fabric. The softness of cashmere is characterized under low applied force, as are its compression and surface properties. The compression energy ( WC) and displacement ( Dmax) at a maximum pressure of 250 Pa can be used to differentiate among samples. Fibers with higher mean curvature have lower WC, indicating the effect of fiber slippage during compression. The mean coefficient of friction (MIU) shows a significant difference ( p ≤ 0.05) among fine cashmere fibers. Softness as evaluated by the hand touch of an expert can be explained by both WC and MIU.

Textures of value: Tactility, experience, and exclusion in the cashmere commodity chain

“…Meanwhile, at the leading edge of textile research, industry researchers are developing mechanical means by which to mimic hand evaluation (Davaajav et al, 2019), a goal that Japanese textile researchers have been pursuing since at least the 1980s (e.g., Kawabata, 1980; Kawabata & Niwa, 1991). 2 What researchers are aiming for is not exactly a robotic hand (there would be no performative point to making it look like a human hand) but, rather, reproducing the force of a human hand pressing down on the tops of fibers and reproducing the hand's nervous sensations in that moment of compression.…”

Simultaneous-integrated evaluation of mechanical–thermal sensory attributes of woven fabrics in considering practical wearing states

“…Tactile sensation is an important aspect of human interaction with the ambient environment, and clothing is perhaps the most intimate object interplaying with our skin, which is sensitive to temperature and pressure due to millions of kinds of receptors. 1,2 Whereas the human tactile sensation response toward fabrics, generally described as “fabric handle,” has long been used to evaluate wear comfort and application areas of fabrics, 3–7 the effective characterization and accurate prediction of mechanical and thermal comfort by considering the actual wearing conditions are still pending problems.…”