Combining high-performance liquid chromatography with on-line microdialysis sampling for the simultaneous determination of ascorbyl glucoside, kojic acid, and niacinamide in bleaching cosmetics

Lin, Cheng-Hui; Wu, Hsin‐Lung; Huang, Yeou‐Lih

doi:10.1016/j.aca.2006.08.002

Cited by 55 publications

(29 citation statements)

References 25 publications

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“…Therefore, we adapted different published methods, used to determine some of the target analytes, in order to evaluate the accuracy of the proposed method. It should be emphasized that we were unable to reproduce the methods for AG determination, since we did not have the instrumentation or the chromatographic columns employed in the only three methods published in the literature determining this novel skin-whitening agent [17,18,26].…”

Section: Reference Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Moreover, unfortunately, there are only few papers reporting the determination of AA and/or some of its derivatives in skin-whitening products, as recently reviewed by Chisvert et al [6]. LC with UV/visible spectrometry (UV/Vis) detection is the technique of choice in determining AA [15,16], AG [17,18], AP [19] and APH [15, 17, 19 -23]. Octadecylsilica (C 18 ) columns are the most popular columns employed, although the use of amipropyl [20] or cyanopropyl [19] bonded silica columns are proposed by some authors to carry out the retention and subsequent determination of the most ionic analyte (i. e. APH).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Environmentally friendly LC for the simultaneous determination of ascorbic acid and its derivatives in skin‐whitening cosmetics

Balaguer

Chisvert²,

Salvador

2008

J of Separation Science

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Ascorbic acid (AA), also known as vitamin C, is a very popular skin-whitening agent used in cosmetics. However, the use of AA (and also its sodium or magnesium salts) in cosmetic products is limited owing to its labile oxidative properties. In order to avoid its early degradation, different derivatives have been designed, such as ascorbyl phosphate (APH; as magnesium or sodium salts) and ascorbyl palmitate (AP), and more recently the ascorbyl glucoside (AG). Bearing in mind that all these chemicals in skin-whitening cosmetic products must be determined in order to control the efficacy of such products, this paper focuses on developing a wide-ranging LC analytical method able to determine the above-mentioned compounds simultaneously in cosmetic products. The chromatographic variables were studied and selected in order to achieve the total separation and subsequent determination of all the analytes involved. Thus, an octadecylsilica (C(18)) stationary phase and a mobile phase gradient of ethanol: 50 mM phosphate buffer at different pHs (containing 0.1 M NaCl) were used. Detection was carried out with a UV/visible spectrometry detector set at different wavelengths. The LOD ranged from 2 to 6 microg/mL depending on the analyte. The proposed method was validated by analysing a laboratory-made and six commercial skin-whitening cosmetic samples. The method allows any mixture of the four skin-whitening agents studied to be both separated at good resolution and determined without interferences from samples, and moreover it does not require the use of either highly toxic organic solvents or hazardous chemicals.

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Section: Reference Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Environmentally friendly LC for the simultaneous determination of ascorbic acid and its derivatives in skin‐whitening cosmetics

Balaguer

Chisvert²,

Salvador

2008

J of Separation Science

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“…Lin et al [33] combined on-line MD sampling with reverse-phase liquid chromatography with UV-visible detection to determine the ascorbyl glucoside, kojic acid and niacinamide in bleaching cosmetics. Six commercial bleaching cosmetic samples were weighed, diluted and vortexed and poured into 4 mL dialysis vials for analysis.…”

Section: Detectors Coupled With Hplc Analysismentioning

confidence: 99%

Current separation and detection methods in microdialysis the drive towards sensitivity and speed

Guihen

O’Connor

2009

Electrophoresis

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This review outlines some of the analytical challenges associated with the analysis of microdialysis (MD) samples, in particular, the minute complex sample volumes that are often encountered. In MD sampling many different low-molecular-weight molecules can be collected, but the research findings are often limited by the sensitivity, specificity, and reliability of the analytical technique that is coupled to the dialysis probe. Therefore it is critical that a lot of consideration is given in selecting the most suitable analytical method including the most appropriate detector. This review aims to highlight the strengths and weaknesses of a range of commonly used analytical methods employed in MD. In Section 1, a brief overview of the MD technique is described, followed by a discussion on some of the advantages and drawbacks of this sampling technique. Sections 2 and 3 examine analytical and other technical considerations regarding analysis, with special emphasis on the factors that specifically influence analytical detection. Section 4 outlines the most commonly employed analytical techniques used in MD, including HPLC coupled with various detectors. Detail is given regarding the LOD and LOQ for many applications using each detector. As MS is of such high importance in MD, a special sub-section has been devoted to it. The importance of CE is also highlighted, with specific applications described. In addition, analytical techniques that do not appear to have found routine use in MD are discussed. Section 5 is concerned with recent innovations in chemical separation techniques, in particular MCE and ultra-performance liquid chromatography. Specific applications of the coupling of these techniques with MD are highlighted, along with technical challenges associated with miniaturization. In the Section 6, the future outlook of MD is discussed. Techniques other than electrophoretic- and chromatographic based separation methods are outside the scope of this review.

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“…Adenosine is one of the well-known anti-wrinkling agents [11][12][13], and arbutin and niacinamide are skin whitening agents used for skin lightening cosmetic products, such as lightening creams, anti-aging whitening creams, and age spot corrective creams [14][15][16][17]. The pH-responsive copolymer of MAA and PEGMA, designated P(MAA-co-EGMA), hydrogel microparticles were prepared and the feasibility of the P(MAA-co-EGMA) hydrogel microparticles as delivery carriers was evaluated with these cosmetic ingredients.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Smart delivery system for cosmetic ingredients using pH-sensitive polymer hydrogel particles

Lee

Kim

2011

Korean J. Chem. Eng.

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pH-Sensitive P(MAA-co-EGMA) hydrogel microparticles were prepared and their feasibility as smart delivery carriers for cosmetically active ingredients such as arbutin, adenosine, and niacinamide was evaluated. P(MAAco-EGMA) hydrogel microparticles were synthesized via dispersion photopolymerization. There was a drastic change in the swelling ratio of P(MAA-co-EGMA) microparticles at a pH of around 5. The loading efficiency of the cosmetic ingredients was affected by the electrostatic interaction between the hydrogel and the cosmetic ingredients. The P(MAAco-EGMA) hydrogel microparticles showed a pH-sensitive release behavior. Thus, at pH 4 almost none of the cosmetic ingredients except adenosine permeated through the skin, while at pH 6 relatively high skin permeability was obtained. These results indicate that the P(MAA-co-EGMA) hydrogel microparticles synthesized in this study have the potential to be used as a smart carrier for cosmetic ingredients triggered by an external pH change for cosmetic applications.

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Combining high-performance liquid chromatography with on-line microdialysis sampling for the simultaneous determination of ascorbyl glucoside, kojic acid, and niacinamide in bleaching cosmetics

Cited by 55 publications

References 25 publications

Environmentally friendly LC for the simultaneous determination of ascorbic acid and its derivatives in skin‐whitening cosmetics

Environmentally friendly LC for the simultaneous determination of ascorbic acid and its derivatives in skin‐whitening cosmetics

Current separation and detection methods in microdialysis the drive towards sensitivity and speed

Smart delivery system for cosmetic ingredients using pH-sensitive polymer hydrogel particles

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