Clinical and <i>in vitro</i> evaluation of new anti‐redness cosmetic products in subjects with winter xerosis and sensitive skin

Nisbet, Stephanie J; Targett, Darren; Rawlings, A. V.; Qian, Kan; Wang, X; Lin, Connie B.; Thompson, Michael A.; Bulsara, Pallav A.; Moore, David J.

doi:10.1111/ics.12559

Cited by 11 publications

(11 citation statements)

References 39 publications

(53 reference statements)

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“…Niacinamide, vitamin B3, is a well-known barrier repair vehicle widely used as a moisturizer and body wash ingredient ( Del Rosso, 2011 ), as well as a known PPAR agonist in enhancing filaggrin biosynthesis ( Harding and Rawlings, 2000 ). According to Nisbet et al (2019) , 0.1% niacinamide induced a nearly 3-fold change of filaggrin mRNA level in HaCaT keratinocytes. Thus, the moisturizing effect of digested EBN in protecting skin barrier is comparable to that of niacinamide.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Edible Bird’s Nest, an Asian Health Food Supplement, Possesses Moisturizing Effect by Regulating Expression of Filaggrin in Skin Keratinocyte

Lai

Guo

et al. 2021

Front. Pharmacol.

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Edible bird’s nest (EBN) has been consumed as a Chinese delicacy for hundreds of years; the functions of which have been proposed to prevent lung disease, strengthen immune response, and restore skin youthfulness. To support the skin function of EBN, the water extract and the enzymatic digest of EBN with enriched digested peptides were tested in cultured keratinocyte, HaCaT cell line. The effects of EBN extract and digest in inducing proteins crucial for skin moisturizing were determined in both in vitro and ex vivo models. In cultured keratinocytes, the expressions of S100-fused type proteins contributing to skin barrier function in the stratum corneum, e.g. filaggrin and filaggrin-2, were determined in both mRNA and protein levels, which were markedly induced in the treatment of EBN extract or digest. The EBN-induced gene transcriptions of filaggrin and filaggrin-2 were mediated by activation of p38 MAPK pathway and various transcription factors, e.g. GATA3, PPARα, PPARβ, and PPARγ: these transcriptional factors were markedly activated by the digested products of EBN, as compared to the extract, in cultured keratinocytes. By using atomic force microscopy (AFM), the EBN-treated keratinocyte was shown to have more liquid-like morphology, as compared to a control cell. The EBN digest showed better induction on these moisturizing effects as compared to the extract. These lines of evidence therefore suggested the water moisturizing effect of EBN in skin function.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Edible Bird’s Nest, an Asian Health Food Supplement, Possesses Moisturizing Effect by Regulating Expression of Filaggrin in Skin Keratinocyte

Lai

Guo

et al. 2021

Front. Pharmacol.

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“…One study, with in vitro and clinical methodologies, demonstrated the efficacy of a cosmetic cream and serum, both lamellar formulations, containing niacinamide for sensitive skin. The in vitro analysis comprised the determination of water vapour transmission rate (WVTR), the molecular lipid structure from both formulations by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), while confirming the effects of niacinamide in keratinocyte differentiation by quantitative polymerase chain reaction (qPCR) analysis [38]. The results showed that after four days, the niacinamide treatment was able to significantly increase the gene expression of keratinocyte differentiation markers such as filaggrin and loricrin, as well as involucrin, in dose‐dependent fashion.…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Sensitive skin: Active ingredients on the spotlight

Ferreira

Lobo

Almeida

2021

Intern J of Cosmetic Sci

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Objective Sensitive skin is characterized by self‐reported sensory perceptions in response to stimuli that should not provoke unpleasant sensations. Cosmetic products for sensitive skin are designed to minimize these symptoms. This study aimed to unveil the most used active ingredients for sensitive skin in facial care products from the pharmacy and parapharmacy channel. Methods A pool of products from the pharmacy and parapharmacy channel whose label included the expressions ‘sensitive skin’, ‘reactive skin’ or ‘intolerant skin’ were analysed. The active ingredients were identified from product compositions and ranked in descending order of occurrence. The scientific evidence regarding the mechanism of action and efficacy of each ingredient was also compiled. Results Eighty‐eight products from 19 multinational brands were included. Niacinamide leads the top, followed by Avena sativa, allantoin, glycyrrhetinic acid and derivatives and Laminaria ochroleuca. Ingredients that can reduce skin inflammation and act on the skin barrier were used in more than half of the products analysed. The clinical studies regarding the active ingredients used in these products remain sparse and lack methodological quality. Among the top ingredients, niacinamide, panthenol and acetyl dipeptide‐1 cetyl ester were the only ones studied on volunteers having sensitive skin, while acetyl dipeptide‐1 cetyl ester and palmitoyl tripeptide‐8 were designed to act on the molecular targets involved in this condition. Conclusion This study reveals the most used active ingredients in cosmetic products for sensitive skin, as well as the scientific evidence supporting their efficacy and the mechanisms of action. This insight is meaningful for dermatologists and other health professionals to provide customized advice based on the symptomatology of individuals with sensitive skin, and for the formulation of cosmetic products and design of new active ingredients.

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“…Facial redness is clinically termed facial erythema or rosacea. It is caused by sensitive skin [29], winter…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…xerosis [29], alcohol ingestion [30], and UV radiation [31]. A red face can cause depression or may result in complex social relations [30].…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Ameliorating Effects of Delphinol®, Anthocyanin Standardized Maqui Berry Extract, on Skin Brightness and Redness in Japanese Females: A Randomized Double-Blind Placebo-Controlled Pilot Study

Shimizu¹,

Yamada²,

Miyasaka³

et al. 2020

JCDSA

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Maqui berries are wildly grown or cultivated in the Patagonian region in Chile. The berries contain large amounts of anthocyanins, especially delphinidin glycosides, which are strong anti-oxidants. We previously reported that standardized maqui berry extract, which contained lots of anthocyanins, has ameliorative effects against dry eyes and visible light-induced photoreceptor cell damage. However, the influence of maqui berry extract on the human skin has not been evaluated even though many skin troubles are related to active oxygen species. Therefore, we conducted a randomized double-blind placebo-controlled pilot study with Delphinol®, a maqui berry extract standardized for anthocyanins, especially delphinidins and cyanidins, in healthy Japanese female subjects. Capsules containing Delphinol® (60 mg) or placebo were orally administered to subjects aged 27 to 57 years old for eight weeks. Skin conditions [pigmentation, redness, skin tone, wrinkles, texture, oil content, water content, trans epidermal water loss (TEWL), collagen score, dermal thickness, and elasticity] were measured before and after intervention. In the Delphinol® group, the saturation significantly increased after eight weeks and reddish spots significantly decreased after four weeks of intake. The collagen score, which decreases with age, slightly increased with age by Delphi-nol® ingestion for eight weeks. Thus, the anthocyanin-standardized maqui berry extract Delphinol® increased skin brightness and collagen content, and improved facial skin redness. This study suggests that the daily oral intake of maqui berry extract can help maintain a healthy facial condition.

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Clinical and in vitro evaluation of new anti‐redness cosmetic products in subjects with winter xerosis and sensitive skin

Cited by 11 publications

References 39 publications

Edible Bird’s Nest, an Asian Health Food Supplement, Possesses Moisturizing Effect by Regulating Expression of Filaggrin in Skin Keratinocyte

Edible Bird’s Nest, an Asian Health Food Supplement, Possesses Moisturizing Effect by Regulating Expression of Filaggrin in Skin Keratinocyte

Sensitive skin: Active ingredients on the spotlight

Ameliorating Effects of Delphinol®, Anthocyanin Standardized Maqui Berry Extract, on Skin Brightness and Redness in Japanese Females: A Randomized Double-Blind Placebo-Controlled Pilot Study

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Clinical and in vitro evaluation of new anti‐redness cosmetic products in subjects with winter xerosis and sensitive skin

Cited by 11 publications

References 39 publications

Edible Bird’s Nest, an Asian Health Food Supplement, Possesses Moisturizing Effect by Regulating Expression of Filaggrin in Skin Keratinocyte

Edible Bird’s Nest, an Asian Health Food Supplement, Possesses Moisturizing Effect by Regulating Expression of Filaggrin in Skin Keratinocyte

Sensitive skin: Active ingredients on the spotlight

Ameliorating Effects of Delphinol&#174;, Anthocyanin Standardized Maqui Berry Extract, on Skin Brightness and Redness in Japanese Females: A Randomized Double-Blind Placebo-Controlled Pilot Study

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Product

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Ameliorating Effects of Delphinol®, Anthocyanin Standardized Maqui Berry Extract, on Skin Brightness and Redness in Japanese Females: A Randomized Double-Blind Placebo-Controlled Pilot Study