Challenges in Knitted E-textiles

Abstract

This paper considers the progress made in E-textiles within knitted textiles and discusses what 'Project Jacquard' and the debut of the woven Levi's Commuter X Jacquard by Google jacket helps reveal about the relationship between E-textiles and textiles manufacturing. The paper considers research conducted within the fields of Art, Design and Technology, along with materials with interesting and novel properties that have been integrated into knitted textiles by practitioners and researchers. Such materials can embellish or enhance knitted fabric, from creating additional visual interest to practical functions. However, due to the physical properties of these types of materials, not all materials can be knitted into the fabric with ease; the optimal machine settings and techniques must be determined. Adapting to the physical characteristics of these innovative materials is a logical design requirement of the prototype development process but when we look to adopt the same principles as 'Project Jacquard'; manufacturing knitted E-textiles to scale, the challenges of the material/machinery relationship become more of an issue. This raises the question as to whether it is better to develop the material for better textiles integration, or to optimize the production process to suit the material.

E-Textile by Printing an All-through Penetrating Copper Complex Ink

“…There are two main approaches for the preparation of electrical circuits on the textile: the first one is by weaving or knitting conductive wires or coated fibers into textile, − and the second is by printing a conductive ink to form an electrical circuit directly on the fabrics. The first approach has many limitations, mainly because it results in finished fabrics and therefore hinders the progress of electronics in textile . The direct printing approach brings advantages such as flexibility, simplicity, and a short design-to-product process and therefore is considered more promising for the e-textile market.…”

“…The first approach has many limitations, mainly because it results in finished fabrics and therefore hinders the progress of electronics in textile. 16 The direct printing approach brings advantages such as flexibility, simplicity, and a short design-to-product process and therefore is considered more promising for the e-textile market.…”

Sewing and adhesive bonding technologies for smart clothing production

“…There are many solutions in the development of conductive textile materials, however, the development of smart clothing manufacturing technologies and transfer to industrial application is still unresolved (Mecnika et al ., 2015; Tyler, 2013). With the clothing industry being so diverse in its production technologies in the case of smart clothing, there are two options to consider, whether a new e-textile needs to be developed for an electronic integration to a particular smart product or whether existing technologies need to be adapted to suit the final product functions and design (Chen et al ., 2018).…”

“…Even stiff and brittle functional fibers can be woven into e-textiles, as advanced knitting technologies integrate complex structure and stretcheability for tight fit smart clothing (Maziz et al ., 2017; Takamatsu et al ., 2012). Direct integration of conductive parts into a woven or knitted structure opens the opportunity to create unique circuits and sensors; therefore, technologies require a systematic approach to product development and wearable electronic design (Chen et al ., 2018; Li et al ., 2014).…”

“…A wide range of conductive materials (yarns, threads, woven, knitted and nonwoven textile) are commercially available and still under development; however, more complex design decisions correspond directly with the particular smart product development issues (Chen et al ., 2018; Mecnika et al ., 2015), when flexibility, durability, exploitation requirements and design aesthetics must be ensured.…”