Breakpoint generated surf beat induced by bichromatic wave groups

Baldock, Tom E.; Huntley, David A.; Bird, P. A. D.; O'Hare, T. J.; Bullock, Geoffrey N.

doi:10.1016/s0378-3839(99)00061-7

Cited by 89 publications

(172 citation statements)

References 40 publications

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“…Some applicable experimental data on two dimensional surf beat generation had been produced recently by Baldock et al (2000). A comparison between the generated laboratory data and the theoretical results obtained on the basis of Symonds et al (1982) are in good agreement with each other.…”

Section: Introductionsupporting

confidence: 69%

Field investigations on port non-tranquility caused by infra-gravity water waves

Najafi-Jilani¹,

Rahimi-Maleki²

2010

International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineeri

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Section: Introductionsupporting

confidence: 69%

Field investigations on port non-tranquility caused by infra-gravity water waves

Najafi-Jilani¹,

Rahimi-Maleki²

2010

International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineeri

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“…At the group frequency maximum response is obtained for χ = 1.2 and minimum for χ = 3.6. Baldock et al (2000) and Baldock and Huntley (2002) found good agreement between experiments and this model for bichromatic and random waves. The theory was later extended to a barred beach profile (Symonds and Bowen, 1984).…”

Section: Onshoresupporting

confidence: 56%

“…Right: Run-up versus wave group length normalized by short wave length, series A. Colorbar is the relative groupiness. Data from Baldock et al (2000) 22 Power relationship, at discrete frequencies (∆f = 0.018Hz), between infragravity wave and the target incident short wave height. Random wave cases J6033A (H m0 = 0.141m), J6033B (H m0 = 0.106m) and J6033C (H m0 = 0.071m), Colormap is the power p. .…”

Section: List Of Figuresmentioning

confidence: 99%

Infragravity wave forcing in the surf and swash zone

Moura¹,

Rolim²

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Infragravity waves, also known as surf beat, are important morphodynamic drivers in shallow water, especially inside the surf and swash zone where the short wave energy is dissipated due to breaking. In the past decades, great progress has been acquired in the understanding of surf beat and its implication in the coastal environments. However, many key features are still not fully understood, especially for complex natural systems. This thesis investigates infragravity wave dynamics in the surf and swash zone through a re-analysis of laboratory data, new numerical modelling and novel field measurements.The generation of infragravity waves in the surf zone is commonly associated with two individual mechanisms: release of second-order group-forced long waves and long waves generated by group-induced surf zone breakpoint oscillations. Both mechanisms are forced by radiation stress gradients, but due to their individual nature, different relationships between short and infragravity waves are expected.Determining these relationships, their effectiveness, and the governing hydrodynamic and morphodynamic conditions for each mechanism is complex. In the field, observations are still, to some extent, limited and generally restrained to small wave conditions. The first part of the thesis presents a comprehensive study of different infragravity wave generation mechanisms that includes a critical literature review, a re-analysis of previous laboratory data and an extensive numerical modelling investigation.This work provided new information about the implication of the different processes associated to bound wave shoaling, release and dissipation. In addition, key aspects related to the propagation patterns of infragravity waves have been identified. From the numerical investigation and the large amount of laboratory data re-analysed, clear and distinct relationships between the breakpoint and shoreline excursion have been established for each generation mechanism. The second part of the thesis presents a novel method to determine the dominant infragravity mechanism in the inner surf and swash zone in the field. In the field, the breakpoint oscillations and the shoreline motion are measured remotely via video and ii their relationship identified via cross-correlation. The identification of the dominant forcing mode, either bound wave or breakpoint, is interpreted based on the specific relationships previously determined.The results of thirteen field data sets collected from three different beaches indicate that, inside the surf zone, the dominance of bound wave or breakpoint forcing is strongly dependent on the surf zone width and the type of short wave breaking.Infragravity generation by bound wave release was stronger for conditions with relatively narrow surf zones and plunging waves; breakpoint forcing was dominant for wider surf zones and spilling breaker conditions, suggesting also that the bound waves remained forced inside the surf zone, being dissipated during short wave breaking. The numerical and laborato...

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“…The latter authors provided a one-dimensional "equilibrium solution" that relates the bound wave amplitude to the radiation stress forcing provided by the short waves. The theoretical results were validated against observational data in the laboratory [11,12]. Physically, the formation of the These long wave motions were subsequently confirmed in a number of field campaigns (e.g., [3] and many studies thereafter) to contain a significant portion of the total energy in the wave field, especially in shallower water.…”

Section: Generation Of Lw In Deep Watermentioning

confidence: 62%

“…The latter authors provided a one-dimensional "equilibrium solution" that relates the bound wave amplitude to the radiation stress forcing provided by the short waves. The theoretical results were validated against observational data in the laboratory [11,12]. Physically, the formation of the bound wave can be understood as the waves with higher amplitudes pushing the mean water level down thus creating a trough.…”

Section: Generation Of Lw In Deep Watermentioning

confidence: 83%

Review of Long Wave Dynamics over Reefs and into Ports with Implication for Port Operations

Dongeren

Jong

Lem

et al. 2016

JMSE

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This paper reviews the dynamics of infragravity (long-period) waves over reef systems and the consequences of these waves for operations in ports located behind reefs with particular attention to Western Australia. Swells which originate in the Southern Ocean generate long (infragravity) waves, which propagate to the coast. On the reef edge, the swell waves are largely dissipated, transferring energy to turbulence and heat but also in that process generating long wave energy. The remaining swell waves are dominated by the infragravity waves and propagate towards the mainland and into port basins where they cause moored ship motions with consequences for the operational downtime of the port's operations. When contemplating solutions to mitigate the impact of the long wave problems, these may be addressed from two sides: from the load side (waves) and the strength side (mooring). The former will be discussed in this paper.

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Breakpoint generated surf beat induced by bichromatic wave groups

Cited by 89 publications

References 40 publications

Field investigations on port non-tranquility caused by infra-gravity water waves

Field investigations on port non-tranquility caused by infra-gravity water waves

Infragravity wave forcing in the surf and swash zone

Review of Long Wave Dynamics over Reefs and into Ports with Implication for Port Operations

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