Being seen in your pyjamas: the relationship between fashion, class, gender and space

Abstract

Based on empirical research, carried out as part of qualitative study into fashion practices and fashion discourse, this article examines the fashion-class relationship, by considering its links to both gender and space. It argues that the way in which women judge visibility and public space differs with class status and that this in turn has significant implications for women's fashion choices, and more specifically, dressing up.Indeed, whilst middle class participants tend to view almost any space as public and one in which they are visible, for working class participants neighbourhood and local spaces are seen to constitute semi-private spaces, whose audiences' opinions and judgements do not matter. As a result, being dressed in your pyjamas is not deeply problematic for these working class women in the context of their everyday lives, while for their middle class counterparts being seen in your pyjamas is something which should be avoided, at all cost. Moreover, as the article demonstrate, the wearing of pyjamas is often considered by middle class respondents as indicative of working classness. And thus, being seen in your pyjamas is undesirable on two counts.

Looking “out of place”: analysing the spatial and symbolic meanings of dementia care settings through dress

“…[Anita, care home manager] This quotation reveals the contradiction between the idea that wearing pyjamas or a nightie is appropriate within the care home lounge because it represents ''home'' to residents, and the fact that it is still a public space, inhabited by other residents and visitors. Whilst pyjamas are perfectly acceptable within the private space of the home, wearing them in public is seen as breaking codes of public dress, and therefore incurs moral judgements (Appleford 2015). As the above quotation also illustrates, staff fear that moral sanctions will be directed at them, as a visible indicator of poor quality care (Ward et al 2008), which ''looks like we haven't bothered.''…”

“…These ambiguities are reflected in and exposed by dress, for example, in the simultaneous presence of both slippers and handbags that we observed in care home lounges (Buse & Twigg 2014): slippers signify ease, comfort and being ''at home''; while carrying a handbag is a practice associated with public space. There are also internal gradations of public/private space within care home settings, which are marked by dress (Appleford 2015). The lounge and dining areas represent the public ''front'' of the care home (Goffman 1969), shared with other residents and staff, and open to visitors.…”

“…Here the spaces were smaller and lower. The regime was warmer, less formal, with a more homely atmosphere in which there was greater emphasis on ''being'' than ''appearing'' (Appleford 2015), and where inappropriate undressing would be less noticeable: Downstairs [in the dementia unit] it wouldn't not be appropriate because people wouldn't look [ . .…”

“…In contemporary Britain, spatial demarcations of dress continue to constitute class and gender distinctions (Appleford 2013). For instance, in recent media coverage, working class women were derided for wearing pyjamas in public space, breaking codes of formal/informal, public/private dress (Appleford 2015). Women's bodies and dress are particularly visible Á coded in terms of display, as objects ''to be looked at''; and women experience greater body consciousness in public spaces (Entwistle 2000).…”

“…''Dressing up'' is a particular form of dress practice, located within public spaces such as bars, restaurants or parties, and signifying ''special occasions'' (Appleford 2015;Tseëlon 1995). To an extent, the practice of dressing up is inevitably diminished on admission to care, reflecting the ''desegregation'' of the spheres of home/work/leisure that characterises institutional life (Goffman 1961: 17, 42).…”