Bakuchiol—A new allergen in cosmetics

Malinauskienė, Laura; Linauskienė, Kotryna; Černiauskas, Kęstutis; Chomičienė, Anželika

doi:10.1111/cod.13211

Cited by 8 publications

(6 citation statements)

References 5 publications

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“…A first case of allergic contact dermatitis to bakuchiol has been recently reported in a 33‐year‐old woman . Bakuchiol was present in the cosmetic Noreva Exfoliac Global 6 (Noreva Laboratoires, Paris, France).…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…A first case of allergic contact dermatitis to bakuchiol has been recently reported in a 33-year-old woman. 4 Bakuchiol was present in the cosmetic Noreva Exfoliac Global 6 (Noreva Laboratoires, Paris, France). Patch tests were positive for the suspected cream and with bakuchiol 0.1% pet., whereas 10 control patients also tested with this ingredient showed negative results.…”

Section: Case Reportmentioning

confidence: 99%

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A new case of contact dermatitis to bakuchiol in a cosmetic cream

Raison‐Peyron

Dereure

2019

Contact Dermatitis

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A 23-year-old female with a background of seasonal rhinoconjunctivitis and aquagenic urticaria was referred for investigation of recurrent facial eczema. She reported repeated flares of erythematous and edematous itchy lesions strictly localized on her face and more specifically on the eyelids after applying the anti-age eye cream DermAbsolu Soin regard jeunesse (Laboratoires Dermatologiques Avène, Paris, France). Patch tests were performed on the upper back, using IQ Ultra patch test chambers (Chemotechnique Diagnostics, Vellinge, Sweden) occluded for 2 days with Oper tape (Iberhospitex, Innovative Health Technologies, Barcelona, Spain); the European baseline series was tested along with additional tests suggested by the REVIDAL group, a cosmetic series (Chemotechnique Diagnostics), and the suspected cream "as is." Tests were read on day (D) 2 and D4 according to criteria of the International Contact Dermatitis Research Group. All patch tests were negative but a repeated open application test (ROAT) with the eye cream was positive on D1 with a follicular pattern (Figure 1).In a second step, all ingredients of this cream, kindly provided by the manufacturer, were tested. The patch test with bakuchiol 1% pet., which corresponds to its concentration in the final product, was the only positive test result (++ on D2 and D4). The patient was also tested with bakuchiol 0.1% pet. with positive results (+ on D2, ++ on D4; Figure 2). Five controls were tested with bakuchiol 1% pet. with a negative result for all of them. Accordingly, the patient was advised to avoid products containing this component. DISCUSSION Bakuchiol (INCI) is a phytochemical product extracted from Psoralea corylifolia seeds. P corylifolia (Babchi) is a leguminous plant used in Ayurveda and Chinese traditional medicine, the extracts of which contain numerous phytochemicals, including flavonoids, coumarins, and meroterpenes (bakuchiol and 3-hydroxybakuchiol). 1 Bakuchiol is used in cosmetic creams as an emollient, anti-oxidant, skin conditioning, and anti-microbial agent. It allegedly regulates seborrhea and has anti-acne properties. 2 In addition, it has been found to have retinol-like effects in vitro, stimulating collagen synthesis in mature fibroblasts and upregulating genes involved in extracellular matrix and dermoepidermal junction maintenance. 3 In vivo, it may reduce wrinkles and hyperpigmentation without the irritating effects of retinol. Accordingly, bakuchiol is often presented as a "natural" alternative to retinol, being more photostable and less irritant than the latter molecule, and is widely used in anti-acne and anti-aging cosmetics. A first case of allergic contact dermatitis to bakuchiol has been recently reported in a 33-year-old woman. 4 Bakuchiol was present in F I G U R E 1 Follicular inflammatory pattern of the repeated open application test with the cream on day 1 RAISON-PEYRON AND DEREURE 61

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Case Reportmentioning

confidence: 99%

A new case of contact dermatitis to bakuchiol in a cosmetic cream

Raison‐Peyron

Dereure

2019

Contact Dermatitis

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“… 7–9 Yet, its growing use led to identify contact dermatitis cases. 10 , 11 Such adverse effects are not unexpected, as intolerance to botanical compounds is frequent. 12 Therefore, finding natural retinoid functional analogs is still of interest.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

In a Preliminary Study on Human Subjects, a Cosmetic Cream Containing a Harungana madagascariensis Plant Extract Induces Similar Anti-Aging Effects to a Retinol-Containing Cream

Gibielle¹,

Bousseksou²,

Guéhenneux³

et al. 2023

CCID

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Retinoids are the most effective anti-aging ingredients. Yet, their use can result in adverse reactions. Even bakuchiol, a natural functional analog, can lead to contact dermatitis. We previously showed that a Harungana madagascariensis (Lam. ex Poir.) plant extract (HME) presents retinol-like properties in vitro. Therefore, we performed a preliminary analysis of the anti-aging potential of a cream containing HME on 46 subjects. The participants applied a HME cream on half of their face and one forearm. The effects induced were compared to those produced by a retinol cream applied to the contralateral side. Clinical evaluations indicate that the two creams rapidly (28 days) improve wrinkles underneath the eyes, ptosis, color homogeneity, smoothness, plumpness, firmness, and elasticity of the facial skin. The improvement of crow’s feet is only significant after 56 days. For all clinical signs, the effects of both creams are indistinguishable. Instrumental measurements of silicon replica from the eye contour region indicate that the wrinkle surface reduction is already noticeable after 28 days with the HME and retinol cream, while it takes 56 days to have a significant depth decrease. Only the retinol cream improves wrinkle length after 56 days. Ultrasound assessment of forearm skin revealed that the HME cream improves superficial dermis density as early as 28 days with further improvement at day 56, timepoint at which improvement is at the limit of significance with the retinol cream. These preliminary results indicate that HME has similar in vivo functional properties to retinol for reducing the severity of aging signs. Future works, including a bona fide clinical study, are needed to confirm these findings.

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“…1 In this context, "retinol" being used to describe over‐the‐counter vitamin A derivates found in cosmetic skincare products, not the active, prescription only retinoic acid. Bakuchiol is derived from the seeds and leaves of the plant psoralea corylifolia 2 . It is claimed that it is a "functional analogue of retinol" based on its effects on gene expression profiles of skin cells in vitro 3 …”

mentioning

confidence: 99%

“…It is relevant to add that bakuchiol has already been shown to be a contact allergen 2 in a case report of a 33‐year‐old woman with a 1‐year history of dermatitis of her face secondary to a 0.1% bakuchiol cosmetic product.…”

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confidence: 99%

Cosmetic commentary: Is bakuchiol the new "skincare hero"?

Spierings

2020

J of Cosmetic Dermatology

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Bakuchiol is a new trendy ingredient in cosmetic skincare products, claiming to have similar efficacy to over‐the‐counter vitamin A derivative products. The manufacturers use clinical trial data to support the claims that bakuchiol has anti‐aging properties. This commentary critically appraises these clinical trials. Dermatologists need to be aware of and clinically appraise evidence for these types of cosmetic ingredients in order to provide accurate recommendations to their patients and the consumer. The integrity of our profession and the well‐being of our patients depend on it.

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Bakuchiol—A new allergen in cosmetics

Cited by 8 publications

References 5 publications

A new case of contact dermatitis to bakuchiol in a cosmetic cream

A new case of contact dermatitis to bakuchiol in a cosmetic cream

In a Preliminary Study on Human Subjects, a Cosmetic Cream Containing a Harungana madagascariensis Plant Extract Induces Similar Anti-Aging Effects to a Retinol-Containing Cream

Cosmetic commentary: Is bakuchiol the new "skincare hero"?

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