Aqueous dispersions of organogel nanoparticles – potential systems for cosmetic and dermo‐cosmetic applications

Kirilov, Plamen; Rum, S.; Gilbert, E.; Roussel, L.; Salmon, D.; Abdayem, Rawad; Serre, C.; Villa, Carla; Haftek, Marek; Falson, Françoise; Pirot, Fabrice

doi:10.1111/ics.12131

Cited by 39 publications

(49 citation statements)

References 38 publications

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“…MLS technique allows evaluation of optical characteristics for several formulations, from suspensions or emulsions to nanosystem or microsystem gels [17][18][19]. With the multiple light scattering technique, a macroscopic fingerprint of the sample at a given time is obtained, providing useful information about changes in droplet size, distribution, and appearance of a creaming layer.…”

Section: Multiple Light Scattering (Mls) Analysismentioning

confidence: 99%

Biocellulose Masks as Delivery Systems: A Novel Methodological Approach to Assure Quality and Safety

et al. 2018

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Bacterial cellulose (BC) has become of great interest in recent years, as a delivery system in several areas of application, including food, drugs, and cosmetics, thanks to its exclusive advantages, such as high biocompatibility, water holding capacity, and good gas permeability. The novel approach of the authors has led to a protocol for checking the quality and safety of bacterial cellulose matrices in the manufacture of cosmetic masks. Two non-destructive techniques, near-infrared spectroscopy (NIR) and multiple light scattering (MLS), were used to verify different parameters affecting the quality of BC sheets, allowing cellulose masks to be checked over time. NIR spectroscopy allowed for discovering changes in the water content, depending on filling/packaging procedures, like flat-folding. Multiple light scattering was used to ascertain the stability of solutions in contact with masks. From a clinical standpoint, the cutaneous tolerability of biocellulose masks, and their effect on skin parameters, were evaluated through some specific "in vivo" tests. Also, a safety evaluation during application was conducted through different studies: a short-term one after single application, and a long-term one upon continued use.Cosmetics 2018, 5, 66 2 of 20 surface area per unit mass is demonstrated. This feature, combined with its highly hydrophilic nature, results in a very high liquid-loading capacity. Its water-holding capacity (WHC) is over 100 times (by mass) higher than plant cellulose, and the WHC is 100-200 times its dry weight [1][2][3].The hydrogen bonds between its fibrillar units stabilize the whole structure, and define many of its mechanical properties. Tensile strength, maximum elongation, and elastic modulus, that characterize BC, depend on its own uniform ultrafine-fiber network structure, and the high planar orientation of the ribbon-like fibers, when compressed into sheets, results in good chemical stability [3].Bacterial cellulose shows great biocompatibility, not only because of its non-toxic effects on biological systems but, also, by eliciting an appropriate host response to ensure satisfactory performance during a specific application. Petersen and Gatenholm have pointed out that biocompatibility of BC for tissue engineering applications can be can be due to structure similarities with extracellular matrix components, such as collagen. In fact, collagen and BC nanofibers have similar diameters (around 100 nm), and are extracellularly assembled from precursor molecules into polymer chains [4].Due to its unique structural properties, BC has become of interest in different fields, such as in the textile industry, high quality paper production, food, pharmaceutical and medical devices, electronics, and acoustics [1,2]. In particular, the biomedical field exploits microbial cellulose as a natural, porous, nontoxic material in tissue-like products for both wound care and the regeneration of damaged or diseased organs. Due to its unique nanostructure and properties, BC is a natural candidate for numerou...

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Section: Multiple Light Scattering (Mls) Analysismentioning

confidence: 99%

Biocellulose Masks as Delivery Systems: A Novel Methodological Approach to Assure Quality and Safety

et al. 2018

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“…Structuring silicone to make-up formulations [9,10] Lecithin Delivery of anti-ageing molecules [11] Delivery of caffeine to cellulite treatment [12] 12-hydroxystearic acid Stabilize UVB blockers to sunscreens Improve rheological properties like spreadability over the skin to antiperspirant gel formulations [13,14] Monoglycerides stabilized by weak interchain interactions (e.g. hydrogen bonding, van der Waals forces and p-p stacking bonds).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Main features and applications of organogels in cosmetics

Martinez

Rosado

Velasco

et al. 2019

Intern J of Cosmetic Sci

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Cosmetic treatments aim at improving skin appearance through vehicles of good sensory properties. Those vehicles are mainly emulsions and gels designed to deliver safe and effective compounds to skin. Creams and serums are widely used to achieve these goals, but recently a new type of formulation known as organogels triggered scientific attention, particularly in the design of both topical and cosmetic formulations. It has been established that the lipophilic nature of organogels makes it an excellent candidate for the delivery of cosmetic molecules through skin. In this review, we discuss the properties and characteristics of organogels and present the advantages of the application of these systems in cosmetics.

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“…12‐Hydroxystearic acid (HSA) is one of these LMWGs used as a gelator for cooking oils . In addition, a supramolecular organogel made from HSA has been actively investigated for bioapplications, cosmetics and as a xerogel for recovery of oil spills . HSA is able to gel various organic solvent such as paraffin oil, octyl palmitate, and silicone oil by the formation of interconnected crystalline fibers .…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

A Supramolecular Gel Based on 12‐Hydroxystearic Acid/Virgin Coconut Oil for Injectable Drug Delivery

Tantishaiyakul

Ouiyangkul

Wajasat

et al. 2018

Euro J Lipid Sci & Tech

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A supramolecular organogel based on 3 wt% of 12‐hydroxystearic acid (HSA) and virgin coconut oil (oil) in the presence of a gel inhibitor, 4 wt% ethanol (EtOH), is developed and investigated for injectable implant delivery. Gel formation is observed by the test tube tilting method. The characteristic properties of the sol‐gel system are determined using rheological, thermal, and turbidity analyses. The in vitro releases of piroxicam (PX) and diclofenac acid (DFA), the models for hydrophilic and lipophilic drugs, respectively, are performed. Characterization of the blends from the three methods are comparable and indicate that the systems of HSA/oil, PX/HSA/oil, and DFA/HSA/oil gel at about 36–39 °C upon cooling and the gel turns to a sol at a temperature higher than 50 °C upon heating at a rate of 2 °C min−1. Isothermal measurements reveals that HSA/EtOH/oil, PX/HSA/EtOH/oil, and DFA/HSA/EtOH/oil remain as a sol for about 18 min at room temperature (25 °C). Both PX and DFA show a sustained release from HSA/oil and HSA/EtOH/oil. Practical Applications: The presence of ethanol which is a hydrophilic molecule can disrupt the interaction between HSA molecules and suppress gel formation at the low temperature that the system normally forms gel. This HSA/EtOH/oil system might be injectable at room temperature and become gels at the site of injection when EtOH is diffused to other tissues in the body. This system is beneficial for use as an injectable implant system for a sustained delivery of both hydrophilic and hydrophobic drugs. 12‐hydroxystearic acid (HSA) and virgin coconut oil (oil) can form gels at body and lower temperatures e.g., room temperatures. The sol‐gel system is characterized using rheological, thermal, and turbidity methods. Ethanol inhibits gel formation at room temperature to facilitate injection. The mixture of HSA, ethanol, and oil might be used as an injectable implantation. Two hydrophobic (diclofenac) and hydrophilic (piroxicam) model drugs show sustained releases from HSA/oil and HSA/ethanol/oil.

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Aqueous dispersions of organogel nanoparticles – potential systems for cosmetic and dermo‐cosmetic applications

Abstract: The obtained results demonstrate the interest of these gelled nanoparticles and their aqueous dispersion for the preparation of new formulations for cosmetic and dermo-cosmetic applications.

Cited by 39 publications

References 38 publications

Biocellulose Masks as Delivery Systems: A Novel Methodological Approach to Assure Quality and Safety

Biocellulose Masks as Delivery Systems: A Novel Methodological Approach to Assure Quality and Safety

Main features and applications of organogels in cosmetics

A Supramolecular Gel Based on 12‐Hydroxystearic Acid/Virgin Coconut Oil for Injectable Drug Delivery

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