Alpha hydroxyacids modulate stratum corneum barrier function

Berardesca, Enzo; Distante, F.; Vignoli, G. P.; Oresajo, Christian; GREEN, B.

doi:10.1111/j.1365-2133.1997.tb01554.x

Cited by 104 publications

(32 citation statements)

References 6 publications

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“…Altered surface pH values after tape stripping regain normal values in humans within 3-4 days [105]. Pretreatment with acidic ·-hydroxy acids (pH 3.4-4.4 compared to an alkaline vehicle) revealed a significantly higher resistance against a barrier challenge with sodium lauryl sulfate [106]. Ultrastructural findings support the positive effect of glycolic acid on the degradation of desmosomes [107].…”

Section: Importance Of Ph For the Barriersupporting

confidence: 57%

Stratum corneum pH: Formation and Function of the ‘Acid Mantle’

Fluhr¹,

Elias²

2002

Exog Dermatol

168

112

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Although the acidic surface pH of the skin has been known for over a century, the stratum corneum (SC) pH gradient has been discovered only recently. After removal of SC layers with sequential tape strips, in humans, surface pH starts at 4.5–5.3, increasing by about 2–3 units until it reaches 6.8 in the lower SC. Both exogenous [free fatty acids (FFA) from sebaceous lipid, microbial metabolites, lactic acid from eccrine glands] and endogenous epidermal (enzymatic; membrane antiporters/pumps) mechanisms have been hypothesized to contribute to SC acidification. Three endogenous mechanisms have been identified to date that not only could influence SC pH, but also regulate one or more key SC functions: (1) the histidine-to-urocanic-acid pathway; (2) the phospholipid-to-FFA pathway, and (3) the sodium proton antiporter (NHE1). Additional factors that influence human surface pH have been detected. Endogenous factors, unrelated to pathological features, such as racial differences, topographical variation, gender differences, developmental and age-related changes have been reported. In contrast to adults, human newborn SC displays a near-neutral surface pH, which declines rapidly over the first postnatal month. Furthermore, endogenous factors have been described, as in atopic dermatitis, seborrheic dermatitis, diabetes, renal insufficiency and ichthyosis associated with an increased pH. Exogenous factors, like the use of detergents and cleansing products as well as SC hydration, can modify the surface pH. The consequences of SC acidification for several key SC functions are becoming clear, including (1) the role of an acidic pH for SC permeability barrier homeostasis, (2) the pH dependence of extracellular lipid processing and (3) SC integrity/cohesion. Integrity is defined as a measure of resistance to dissociation of adjacent corneocytes by tape stripping (cohesion is a related index defined as the amount of protein removed per stripping). (4) Proteolytic processes leading to desquamation are pH dependent, and (5) an acidic pH provides important antimicrobial resistance.

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Section: Importance Of Ph For the Barriersupporting

confidence: 57%

Stratum corneum pH: Formation and Function of the ‘Acid Mantle’

Fluhr¹,

Elias²

2002

Exog Dermatol

168

112

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“…Modulation of the barrier function was achieved by the deposition of lipids on the skin by different cosmetics, e.g., body lotions [81], bath oils [84], or by the action of some specific ingredients [85].…”

Section: Cosmetic Applicationsmentioning

confidence: 99%

EEMCO Guidance for the Assessment of Transepidermal Water Loss in Cosmetic Sciences

Rogiers

2001

Skin Pharmacol Physiol

462

455

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Measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), based on the estimation of the water vapour gradient in an open chamber, is being used to support claims of cosmetics including product mildness, reduction in irritative skin reactions, skin hydration, skin repair, protective effect against UV damage and others. TEWL measurement can also screen ingredients that have a beneficial effect on the barrier function and offer the possibility to monitor in vivo, on human skin, the effect of topical treatment in an objective and non-invasive way. A high number of variables affecting TEWL measurements have been identified. These should be rigorously taken into consideration. To work under standardised conditions is of the utmost importance to obtain reliable and reproducible results.

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“…In addition, it is possible that the pulp extract contains natural soothing agents which can reduce the irritation potential and not interfere with the stimulatory activity of the tartaric acid. Furthermore, tartaric acid itself has an antioxidant effect which can reduce disruption of skin barrier function 23 . The adverse reaction experienced by one of the subjects was unlikely to be due to the pulp extract since the subject had mild skin redness on both sides of face.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Maenthaisong¹,

Chaiyakunapruk²,

Warnnissorn³

et al. 2009

ScienceAsia

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Cleansing lotion containing 8% w/w tamarind pulp extract was prepared and tested for its clinical effects on skin properties. The study was performed using 38 healthy Thai female volunteers, and consisted of a home-use, doubleblind, randomized side of face and placebo controlled trial. The test product (emulsion with the extract) and the placebo product (emulsion without the extract) were applied and gently massaged on each side of facial skin for 2 minutes twice daily for 8 weeks and the difference in skin colour between test and placebo side of face was measured. In addition, redness, moisture content, pH and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) of skin, adverse events, subject's satisfaction, and compliance of volunteers were assessed. We found that the melanin value on the side where the test product was applied was significantly less than that of the other side at week 4 (p < 0.015). The mean differences between the test and the placebo side of all skin parameters including melanin value, pH and moisture content elasticity were not significant (p > 0.05) at the end of study (week 8). Erythema and TEWL of the skin were not different between the side on which the test was applied and the placebo side indicating that the product was safe. In addition, most volunteers were satisfied with the cleansing effect of the product containing the extract.

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Alpha hydroxyacids modulate stratum corneum barrier function

Cited by 104 publications

References 6 publications

Stratum corneum pH: Formation and Function of the ‘Acid Mantle’

Stratum corneum pH: Formation and Function of the ‘Acid Mantle’

EEMCO Guidance for the Assessment of Transepidermal Water Loss in Cosmetic Sciences

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