Achillea millefolium L. and Achillea biebersteinii Afan. Hydroglycolic Extracts–Bioactive Ingredients for Cosmetic Use

Abstract

Studies on hydroglycolic (HG) extracts of Achillea biebersteinii (AB)—a less investigated representative of the genus—were performed to determine their potential for cosmetic applications compared to the well-known Achillea millefolium (AM). Three types of water:polyethylene glycol extracts (1:1, 4:1, 6:1 v/v) were obtained from both species and analyzed for their composition by high performance liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (HPLC-ESI-Q-TOF-MS) and assayed for their biological activities. The study led to the identification of 11 metabolites from different natural product classes with the highest share corresponding to 5-caffeoylquinic acid, axillarin, coumaroylquinic acid isomers and 3-caffeoylquinic acid. The highest antiradical capacity in DPPH and ABTS scavenging assays was shown for HG 4:1 of AB and AM extracts. HG 1:1 extracts from both species inhibited monophenolase and diphenolase activity of tyrosinase, whereas AB HG 4:1 extract showed significant monophenolase inhibition. The highest sun protection factor (SPF) was determined for AM HG 4:1 extract, equal to 14.04 ± 0.17. The AB extracts were cytotoxic for both human keratinocytes HaCaT and A375 melanoma, however HG 1:1 and 4:1 extracts were more cytotoxic for cancer than for noncancerous cells. In conclusion, AB HG 1:1 and 4:1 extracts display significant potential as active cosmetic ingredients.

Extracts from Cephalaria Uralensis (Murray) Roem. & Schult. and Cephalaria Gigantea (Ledeb.) Bobrov as Potential Agents for Treatment of Acne Vulgaris: Chemical Characterization and In Vitro Biological Evaluation

“…Among the analyzed compounds, 5-O-caffeoylquinic acid, 3,5-O-dicaffeoylquinic acid, isoorientin and swertiajaponin were presented in all samples in the greatest quantities. It was found that the most effective solvent in extracting phenolics in both both Cephalaria species was 80% acetone followed by mixture of methanol-acetone-water; this may be due to the lower water content and it is in agreement with the other reports [49]. The leading phenolic acids identified in both species were 5-O-caffeoylquinic acid (94.90 ± 0.42-135.83 ± 1.47 µg/g DE) and 3,5-O-dicaffeoylquinic acid (41.29 ± 0.11-118.90 ± 0.46 µg/g DE).…”

Identification of Mushroom and Murine Tyrosinase Inhibitors from Achillea biebersteinii Afan. Extract

“…Tyrosinase inhibitory activity was also detected in extracts from aerial parts of A. monocephala, A. coarctata [ 26 ], A. phrygia [ 27 ], A. alpina [ 28 ], and A. teretifolia [ 13 ]. As previously summarized, A. biebersteinii extracts were recently reported as sources of tyrosinase inhibitors [ 13 , 14 ]. The results presented in Figure 2 confirmed previous findings, showing that most of the A. biebersteinii extracts decrease the activity of mushroom tyrosinase by 24–40%.…”

“…Methanolic extract from A. biebersteinii was recently identified as a potential source of antityrosinease compounds, with stronger mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activity than A. millefolium , a common and valuable ingredient of natural cosmetics with skin-lightening and antioxidant properties [ 13 ]. Significant tyrosinase inhibitory properties were also recently described for hydroglycolic extracts from A. biebersteinii , inhibiting both monophenolase and diphenolase activity of this enzyme [ 14 ]. The most common phytoconstituents identified in A. biebersteinii extracts with tyrosinase inhibitory activity were chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, rutin, quercetin, luteolin, apigenin [ 15 ], caffeoylquinic acid (CQA) isomers: 3-CQA, 4-CQA, 5-CQA, and a dicaffeoylquinic acid derivative: cynarin (1,3-DCQA) [ 14 ].…”

“…Significant tyrosinase inhibitory properties were also recently described for hydroglycolic extracts from A. biebersteinii , inhibiting both monophenolase and diphenolase activity of this enzyme [ 14 ]. The most common phytoconstituents identified in A. biebersteinii extracts with tyrosinase inhibitory activity were chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, rutin, quercetin, luteolin, apigenin [ 15 ], caffeoylquinic acid (CQA) isomers: 3-CQA, 4-CQA, 5-CQA, and a dicaffeoylquinic acid derivative: cynarin (1,3-DCQA) [ 14 ]. Some of these phytochemicals were already identified to inhibit melanin synthesis, but the compound responsible for tyrosinase inhibitory activity of A. biebersteinii extracts was not clearly identified to date.…”

Biological Activities of Natural Products

“…In another article by Gaweł-Bęben et al [20], comparative phytochemical and biological activity studies of hydroglycolic extracts from flowering aerial parts of Achillea millefolium (Am) and Achillea biebersteinii (Ab) collected in Kazakhstan were performed. The aim of the study was to evaluate potential cosmetic application of (Ab).…”