A Placebo-Controlled Study Demonstrates the Long-Lasting Anti-Aging Benefits of a Cream Containing Retinol, DihydroxyMethylChromone (DMC) and Hyaluronic Acid

Abstract

Retinol is an ingredient used in cosmetic products for reducing the appearance of the signs of aging and photo-damage. Currently, most of these products contain 0.1% of retinol. However, at this concentration, some irritation can occur. We have evaluated in vitro and in a clinical study the potential efficacy of a combination of actives to improve the facial skin aging signs while using low concentration of retinol. We demonstrated, in vitro, that a chromone derivative, 5,7-di-hydroxy-2-methyl chromone (DMC), is able to enhance the collagen synthesis in culture of normal human dermal fibroblasts. The enhancement of retinol anti-wrinkle efficacy by DMC was confirmed in a small scale clinical trial. Specifically, a product associating low concentration of retinol (0.04%) and DMC (0.1%) in combination with low molecular weight hyaluronic acid fragments (50,000 Dalton of average molecular weight) has been applied topically for 8 weeks. Clinical results show significant improvement of various signs of facial skin aging such as wrinkles, pigmentary spots, tone unevenness, dullness and the overall photo-damage score. Improvements were still visible 4 weeks after the cessation of the test product application. This study demonstrates that significant lasting improvement of facial skin aging can be obtained with well tolerated low concentration of retinol when adequately formulated with other anti-aging ingredients.

Bakuchiol: a retinol‐like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti‐aging effects

“…Currently, most of these products contain 0.1% or lower of retinol. However, even at this low concentration, some irritation can occur . It seems that bakuchiol has acceptable skin tolerability.…”

Retinoids—A unique ingredient for skin rejuvenation employing novel drug delivery systems

“…A cream tested by Oddos et al [84], containing retinol with HA and dihydroxymethylchromone (DMC) demonstrates the retained anti-aging and skin rejuvenating benefits of retinol when paired with key ingredients like HA and DMC on the facial skin. The study was conducted for a period of 8 weeks with a dermal application of the cream [84].…”

“…A cream tested by Oddos et al [84], containing retinol with HA and dihydroxymethylchromone (DMC) demonstrates the retained anti-aging and skin rejuvenating benefits of retinol when paired with key ingredients like HA and DMC on the facial skin. The study was conducted for a period of 8 weeks with a dermal application of the cream [84]. A low concentration of retinol-0.1% when formulated into a cream using HA and DMC in the formulation exhibits a long-term anti-aging benefit on the facial skin [84].…”

Skincare Bootcamp: The Evolving Role of Skincare

“…Although less effective, retinol has the benefit of low irritation potential when used daily. 31 Retinol is inherently an unstable molecule, making it difficult to retain activity in product formulations. Other less biologically active but more chemically stable forms of vitamin A, such as retinyl-palmitate, are commonly used skincare ingredients, often at low concentrations for the sake of marketing claims.…”