A Comparison of Biological Activities of a New Soya Biopeptide Studied in an In Vitro Skin Equivalent Model and Human Volunteers

Abstract

During aging, the epidermis and dermis become thin and an efficient anti-aging product should be able to stimulate the metabolism of senescent fibroblast and keratinocytes, in order to increase the quantity of extra-cellular matrix components such as collagen and glycosaminoglycans. A study performed in parallel on an in vitro skin equivalent model, and in vivo, with human volunteers, demonstrated the efficacy of one specific soya biopeptide for anti-aging properties. Such a biopeptide induces a significant increase of glycosaminoglycans synthesis in vitro and in vivo after a one-month treatment. We also showed that this new cosmetic ingredient is able to stimulate favourably the collagen synthesis in vitro and in vivo. This study provided the proof for anti-aging properties of a new soya biopeptide and also validated the skin equivalent model developed for this experimentation as an alternative method to animal or human testing for some cosmetic efficacy evaluations.

Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin

“…Papillae index was increased more by soy extract than placebo (3.76 vs. 4.56 in arbitrary units, P < 0.05). Another study with pseudo‐randomized design in 10 Caucasian females [73], concluded the superiority of 2% soya biopeptide emulsion to placebo, in terms of collagen and stimulation of glycosaminoglycan contents.…”

Genetic Customization of Anti-aging Treatments

“…The use of hydrolyzed soy protein increases the tropism of the fibroblasts [18], thereby promoting the synthesis of collagen and glycosaminoglycans [19]. Moreover, the hydrolyzed soy protein extract contains antioxidant peptides [20] with protective action towards the peroxidation of linoleic acid, neutralizing the effects of the peroxynitrite and oxygen free radicals [21].…”

Exploring Peptides in Skincare

“…18 A small pseudo-randomised study of just 10 women (in vivo/in vitro) with soybean peptide, showed a significant increase in glycosaminoglycan and collagen synthesis. 19 Although this and other small studies 1 have shown potential antiageing benefits, larger studies are required as well as more in vivo trials to better demonstrate the relevance and potential of these peptides in skincare formulations. Although, so far, their role looks to be very promising.…”

“…Soybean peptides extracted from soybean seeds, inhibit the formation of proteinases 18. A small pseudo-randomised study of just 10 women (in vivo/in vitro) with soybean peptide, showed a significant increase in glycosaminoglycan and collagen synthesis 19…”