Phototoxicity inducing in vivo photoirritation, a reversible inflammatory reaction of the skin after chemical contact and UVA radiation exposure, is increasingly observed as a side effect associated with the use of both cosmetics and systemic drugs. In order to systematically screen for the phototoxic potential of new compounds, we propose two three-dimensional models suitable for in vitro testing: a dermal equivalent (DE) and a skin equivalent (SE) model. The DE model includes a collagen-glycosaminoglycans-chitosan porous matrix populated by normal human fibroblasts. The SE model is made by seeding normal human keratinocytes onto the DE, leading to a fully differentiated epidermis. The objectives of this pilot study are: 1) to compare the deleterious effects of UVA radiation on the two models and 2) to evaluate to what extent the in vitro results can predict the in vivo phototoxicity caused by well-known photoirritant compounds, included in the COLIPA validation phototoxicity reference chemical list. Dilutions of thiourea, sulisobenzone, promethazine, chlorpromazine and tetracycline were applied (20 microliters) onto DEs and SEs (n = 6) and incubated for 1 h (or 15 h) at 37 degrees C. Irradiated samples received 3 J/cm2 UVA. The 24 h post-irradiation residual cellular viability was measured using the MTT test on treated and untreated tissues and IL-1 alpha release measurement in collected SE culture media. A concordance in terms of photoirritant/non-photoirritant was obtained between the in vivo data and the in vitro results, suggesting that the DE and the SE models could be integrated, after a complete validation study, into a protocol for in vitro testing of the photoirritant potential of new molecules.

Skin firmness, elasticity and tone are gradually lost with age. These changes originate in the dermis and correspond to a decrease in the ability of cells, particularly the fibroblasts, to regenerate the molecules which make up the extracellular matrix. Skin ageing is also characterized by a reduction of the epidermal thickness and by a flattening of the basal membrane. The recent development of two 3-dimensional culture systems, in which the cells develop within a porous structure reproducing the extracellular matrix of the human dermis, is a way of reproducing in vivo conditions and demonstrating the biological effects of anti-ageing compounds. The dermal equivalent model used in this study is composed of a dermal matrix made of collagen-chitosan-glycosaminoglycans populated by normal human fibroblasts which synthesized their own extracellular matrix. A skin equivalent model is obtained by the cell culture of normal human keratinocytes onto a dermal equivalent elevated at the air-liquid interface. Such models were used to prove anti-ageing activity of promising compounds. Cosmetic Science has used many protein hydrolysates in order to fight skin ageing, but up to now, these natural peptides were poorly studied, and their efficacy poorly demonstrated. Eight protein hydrolysates were screened in a proliferation study in monolayered cultures giving two selected polypeptides. A soya derived peptide was used for an efficiency study in 3-dimensional models. In the dermal equivalent model, this peptide increased fibroblast proliferation by 40% and led to a stimulation of collagen formation (165%) and elastin (116%) synthesis. The effect of this soya peptide on glycosaminoglycan synthesis was also significant, with increases of 36% for chondroitin-4-sulfate and 68% for hyaluronic acid. These results were confirmed using a skin equivalent model. In this model, the soya peptide increased the thickness of the epidermis.

The legal procedure for evaluating the toxicity of cosmetic, household, chemical and pharmaceutical products is still the irritancy Draize test on rabbits. Various irritation tests are currently being developed as alternatives to in vivo animal testing. Our in vitro model system is composed of 24 equivalent dermis (ED) comprising a chitosan-cross-linked collagen-glycosaminoglycan matrix populated by foreskin fibroblasts. In evaluating this system for irritancy testing, three different measures of toxicity were used: MTT (dimethylthiazol diphenyltetrazolium bromide) reduction, and lactate dehydrogenase and interleukin-6 release. The experiments described herein represent a preliminary evaluation to determine the usefulness and predictive value of our 24 ED kit as an alternative method for the prediction of human dermal reaction, versus three chemical products: cadmium chloride, lauryl sulfate, and benzalkonium chloride. Preliminary results suggest that the ED may be a useful in vitro model for the prediction of cutaneous and ocular toxicity and allow the development of a 24-skin-equivalent kit realized by seeding human normal keratinocytes onto the equivalent dermis.