Collagen Hydrolysate Prepared from Chicken By-Product as a Functional Polymer in Cosmetic Formulation

Abstract

Chicken stomachs can be processed into collagen hydrolysate usable in cosmetic products. The aim of the study was to verify the effects of a carbopol gel formulation enriched with 1.0% (w/w) chicken hydrolysate on the properties of the skin in the periorbital area after regular application twice a day for eight weeks in volunteers ageed 50 ± 9 years. Skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin elasticity and skin relief were evaluated. Overall, skin hydration increased by 11.82% and 9.45%, TEWL decreased by 25.70% and 17.80% (always reported for the right and left area). Generally, there was an increase in skin elasticity, a decrease in skin roughness, as the resonance times decreased by 85%. The average reduction of wrinkles was 35.40% on the right and 41.20% on the left. For all results, it can be seen that the longer the cosmetic gel formulation is applied, the better the results. Due to the positive effect on the quality and functionality of the skin, it is possible to apply the cosmetic gel formulation in the periorbital area. The advantage of the product with chicken collagen hydrolysate is also the biocompatibility with the skin and the biodegradability of the formulation.

Trends in biopolymer science applied to cosmetics

“…To mention one example, collagen hydrolysates from milkfish (Chanos chanos) scales have shown significant moisture absorption, anti-skin ageing and anti-melanogenic capacities, so it has emerged as a potential active ingredient for skincare products. In another case, a carbomer gel formulation enriched with 1.0% (w/w) chicken hydrolysate increased skin elasticity, decreased roughness and wrinkles and, in general, had positive results related to the bio-mechanical, hydrating and barrier properties of the skin after regular 8-week topical applications [27,28]. Li et al (2020) demonstrated the moisture-retention and -absorption capacities of collagen extracted from sea cucumbers (Holothuria cinerascens) and the skin of tilapia and pigs compared to glycerol, while also confirming notable yields of up to 72.2% from these sources [17].…”

“…Hydrolysate penetrates the skin, retains water, and helps for new collagen biomatrix [27]. Reduces TEWL, moisturizes, smooths and provides building blocks for the formation of elastin fibres [9,10,21,25] Improves elasticity, firmness and anti-ageing effect [44,45] Promotes cell proliferation, preserves humidity and antioxidant activity [58] Enhances the recovery of damaged hair and moisturizes the skin [66] Representative derivatives…”

“…film-forming properties of native collagen and its high molecular weight hydrolysates are often incorporated into facial masks to form continuous colloidal films on the skin surface that reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL), moisturize, smooth and improve appearance by softening and conferring shine and a smooth texture [9,10,21,25]. Native collagen cannot penetrate the skin's stratum corneum, so it remains on the epidermis [26], but low molecular weight hydrolysates in topical applications can penetrate the skin, accumulate, retain water and help form a new collagen biomatrix [27]. Hydrolysed collagen can penetrate the epidermis to some extent and act as a water-binding agent, but it cannot replace collagen lost from the skin [10].…”

Review Artikel: Pemanfaatan Limbah Tulang Ayam Sebagai Sumber Kolagen Untuk Anti Aging Pada Kulit

“…Penghambatan tironase tertinggi diperoleh oleh ekstrak kolagen dengan NaOH 0,1 M yakni sebesar 9,17% dengan substrat Ltirosin dan 26,77% untuk substrat L-DOPA. Data yang diperoleh Prokopová, et al (2021) juga menunjukkan bahwa ada peningkatan keseluruhan dalam keadaan hidrasi kulit sebesar 11,82%, masing-masing sebesar 9,45%. Aplikasi jangka panjang dari formulasi gel kosmetik meningkatkan sifat penghalang kulit di daerah periorbital, sehingga mengurangi permeabilitas air melalui kulit, menunjukkan bahwa hidrolisat kolagen ayam memiliki efek positif tidak hanya pada hidrasi tetapi juga pada TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss).…”

“…Konsumsi oligopeptida secara oral meningkatkan tingkat peptida turunan kolagen dalam darah dan meningkatkan sifat kulit seperti elastisitas, kelembapan, dan TEWL. Asupan harian kolagen terhidrolisis mengurangi proses penuaan kulit (Prokopová, 2021).…”