3-D HOS simulations of extreme waves in open seas

Ducrozet, Guillaume; Bonnefoy, Félicien; Touzé, David Le; Ferrant, P.

doi:10.5194/nhess-7-109-2007

Cited by 94 publications

(85 citation statements)

References 20 publications

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“…Mori and Yasuda (2002), Ducrozet et al (2007), Toffoli et al (2008a) and Toffoli et al (2008b). Note that other numerical methods have also been proposed by Annenkov and Shrira (2001), Clamond and Grue (2001), and Zakharov et al (2002).…”

Section: The Modelmentioning

confidence: 99%

The effect of third-order nonlinearity on statistical properties of random directional waves in finite depth

Toffoli

Benoît

Onorato

et al. 2009

Nonlin. Processes Geophys.

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Abstract. It is well established that third-order nonlinearity produces a strong deviation from Gaussian statistics in water of infinite depth, provided the wave field is long crested, narrow banded and sufficiently steep. A reduction of thirdorder effects is however expected when the wave energy is distributed on a wide range of directions. In water of arbitrary depth, on the other hand, third-order effects tend to be suppressed by finite depth effects if waves are long crested. Numerical simulations of the truncated potential Euler equations are here used to address the combined effect of directionality and finite depth on the statistical properties of surface gravity waves; only relative water depth kh greater than 0.8 are here considered. Results show that random directional wave fields in intermediate water depths, kh=O(1), weakly deviate from Gaussian statistics independently of the degree of directional spreading of the wave energy.

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Section: The Modelmentioning

confidence: 99%

The effect of third-order nonlinearity on statistical properties of random directional waves in finite depth

Toffoli

Benoît

Onorato

et al. 2009

Nonlin. Processes Geophys.

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“…In performing our zero-crossing analysis, we adjust a method used by Ducrozet [12] to define wave heights in simulated wavefields. This method is the most commonly used method to define wave heights from field data and in computational work [12] [59].…”

Section: Zero-crossing Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…This method is the most commonly used method to define wave heights from field data and in computational work [12] [59].…”

Section: Zero-crossing Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

A study of ocean wave statistical properties using nonlinear, directional, phase-resolved ocean wave-field simulations

Henry¹

2010

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In the present work, we study the statistics of wavefields obtained from non-linear phase-resolved simulations. The numerical model used to generate the waves models wave-wave interactions based on the fully non-linear Zakharov equations. We vary the simulated wavefield's input spectral properties: directional spreading function, Phillips parameter and peak shape parameter. We then investigate the relationships between a wavefield's input spectral properties and its output physical properties via statistical analysis. We investigate surface elevation distribution, wave definition methods in a nonlinear wavefield with a two-dimensional wavenumber, defined waves' distributions, and the occurrence and spacing of large wave events.

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“…Mori and Yasuda (2002), Ducrozet et al (2007), Toffoli et al (2008aToffoli et al ( , b, 2010a, and Xiao et al (2013), among others. Note that other numerical methods have also been proposed by Annenkov and Shrira (2001) and Clamond and Grue (2001).…”

Section: The Modelmentioning

confidence: 96%

Modulational instability and wave amplification in finite water depth

Fernández

Onorato

Monbaliu

et al. 2014

Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci.

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Abstract. The modulational instability of a uniform wave train to side band perturbations is one of the most plausible mechanisms for the generation of rogue waves in deep water. In a condition of finite water depth, however, the interaction with the sea floor generates a wave-induced current that subtracts energy from the wave field and consequently attenuates the instability mechanism. As a result, a plane wave remains stable under the influence of collinear side bands for relative depths kh ≤ 1.36 (where k is the wavenumber of the plane wave and h is the water depth), but it can still destabilise due to oblique perturbations. Using direct numerical simulations of the Euler equations, it is here demonstrated that oblique side bands are capable of triggering modulational instability and eventually leading to the formation of rogue waves also for kh ≤ 1.36. Results, nonetheless, indicate that modulational instability cannot sustain a substantial wave growth for kh < 0.8.

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3-D HOS simulations of extreme waves in open seas

Cited by 94 publications

References 20 publications

The effect of third-order nonlinearity on statistical properties of random directional waves in finite depth

The effect of third-order nonlinearity on statistical properties of random directional waves in finite depth

A study of ocean wave statistical properties using nonlinear, directional, phase-resolved ocean wave-field simulations

Modulational instability and wave amplification in finite water depth

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