We present a laboratory experiment in a large directional wave basin to discuss the instability of a plane wave to oblique side band perturbations in finite water depth. Experimental observations, with the support of numerical simulations, confirm that a carrier wave becomes modulationally unstable even for relative water depths k0h < 1.36 (with k the wavenumber of the plane wave and h the water depth), when it is perturbed by appropriate oblique disturbances. Results corroborate that the underlying mechanism is still a plausible explanation for the generation of rogue waves in finite water depth

Abstract.A coupling of a spectral wave model with a nonlinear phase-resolving model is used to reconstruct the evolution of wave statistics during a storm crossing the North Sea on 8-9 November 2007. During this storm a rogue wave (named the Andrea wave) was recorded at the Ekofisk field. The wave has characteristics comparable to the well-known New Year wave measured by Statoil at the Draupner platform 1 January 1995. Hindcast data of the storm at the nearest grid point to the Ekofisk field are here applied as input to calculate the evolution of random realizations of the sea surface and its statistical properties. Numerical simulations are carried out using the Euler equations with a higher-order spectral method (HOSM). Results are compared with some characteristics of the Andrea wave record measured by the down-looking lasers at Ekofisk.

Abstract. The modulational instability of a uniform wave train to side band perturbations is one of the most plausible mechanisms for the generation of rogue waves in deep water. In a condition of finite water depth, however, the interaction with the sea floor generates a wave-induced current that subtracts energy from the wave field and consequently attenuates the instability mechanism. As a result, a plane wave remains stable under the influence of collinear side bands for relative depths kh ≤ 1.36 (where k is the wavenumber of the plane wave and h is the water depth), but it can still destabilise due to oblique perturbations. Using direct numerical simulations of the Euler equations, it is here demonstrated that oblique side bands are capable of triggering modulational instability and eventually leading to the formation of rogue waves also for kh ≤ 1.36. Results, nonetheless, indicate that modulational instability cannot sustain a substantial wave growth for kh < 0.8.

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&lt;p&gt;The research we perform has important engineering applications since a lot of marine activities and offshore engineering activities are in shallow water areas where phenomena like bottom and white-capping dissipation and wind growth take place. The physical parametrization of such forcing/dissipation has become an important issue in the improvement of the performance of models in order to provide accurate sea-state information. In this regard, we perform a sensitivity analysis of dissipation parameterizations in the third-generation spectral wave model WAVEWATCH III using the ST6 source term packages, proposed by Zieger-Babanin 2015, to describe wind generation and dissipation due to white-capping and bottom friction.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;A system of nested grids is used to model long distance swells generated in the North Atlantic Ocean and propagating all the way to the west coast of Ireland. We used a 30-minute coarse resolution for the North Atlantic grid, a 6-minute intermediate resolution for the North-East Atlantic, and&amp;#160;a 3-minute fine resolution in coastal areas closer to Ireland.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;The sensitivity analysis in the parameterization is based on the effect of the model performance by varying the adjustable parameters in the wind input source, swell dissipation in terms of the interaction of waves with oceanic turbulence and the drag coefficient to potentially eliminate a bias in the wind field. The results of the model for the coast of Ireland are discussed in terms of various parametrization schemes.&lt;/p&gt;

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Abstract. The mechanism of side band perturbations to a uniform wave train is known to produce modulational instability and in deep water conditions it is accepted as a plausible cause for rogue wave formation. In a condition of finite water depth, however, the interaction with the sea floor generates a wave-induced current that subtracts energy from the wave field and consequently attenuates this instability mechanism. As a result, a plane wave remains stable under the influence of collinear side bands for relative water depths kh &amp;leq; 1.36 (where k represents the wavenumber of the plane wave and h the water depth), but it can still destabilise due to oblique perturbations. Using direct numerical simulations of the Euler equations, it is here demonstrated that oblique side bands are capable of triggering modulational instability and eventually leading to the formation of rogue waves also for kh &amp;leq; 1.36. Results, nonetheless, indicates that modulational instability cannot sustain a substantial wave growth for kh < 0.8.

&lt;p&gt;The analytic solution of the Boltzmann equation becomes rather difficult in most physically relevant situations due to its mathematical characteristics and it represents a challenge for scientific computing. In this regard, it is well known that some methods yield better results at the expense of longer computational time. Then, the present work, introduces a comparison between the Webb-Resio-Tracy method, the Discrete Interaction approximation, the Multiple Discrete Interaction and the Two-Scale Approximation sources to solve the Boltzmann integral for estimating the transfer of energy due to non-linear interactions implemented in WAVEWATCH III, with the ST4 parametrization. &amp;#160;The assessed period is during the EWANS storm, in March of 2017, on the Ireland coast. The bias, the root-mean-square, the correlation coefficient and the scatter index are used to compare the form of the different spectra obtained from in-situ measurements and numerical simulations. Previous results show that the quality of the resulting spectra does not represent significant differences when a shorter computational times method is used for simulations in the WAVEWATCH III model.&amp;#160;&lt;/p&gt;