In Vitro Dermo-Cosmetic Evaluation of Bark Extracts from Common Temperate Trees

Hubert, Jane; Angelis, Apostolis; Aligiannis, Nektarios; Rosalia, Michalea; Abedini, Amin; Bakiri, Ali; Reynaud, Romain; Nuzillard, Jean‐Marc; Gangloff, Sophie C.; Skaltsounis, Alexios‐Léandros; Renault, Jean‐Hugues

doi:10.1055/s-0042-110180

Cited by 37 publications

(33 citation statements)

References 38 publications

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“…All the studied bark extracts posed high antioxidant power. The results are consistent with previously published research indicating that spruce bark has much potential as a source of antioxidants amongst the studied wood species [ 9 , 36 , 37 ].…”

Section: Resultssupporting

confidence: 93%

Fate of Antioxidative Compounds within Bark during Storage: A Case of Norway Spruce Logs

et al. 2020

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Softwood bark is an important by-product of forest industry. Currently, bark is under-utilized and mainly directed for energy production, although it can be extracted with hot water to obtain compounds for value-added use. In Norway spruce (Picea abies [L.] Karst.) bark, condensed tannins and stilbene glycosides are among the compounds that comprise majority of the antioxidative extractives. For developing feasible production chain for softwood bark extractives, knowledge on raw material quality is critical. This study examined the fate of spruce bark tannins and stilbenes during storage treatment with two seasonal replications (i.e., during winter and summer). In the experiment, mature logs were harvested and stored outside. During six-month-storage periods, samples were periodically collected for chemical analysis from both inner and outer bark layers. Additionally, bark extractives were analyzed for antioxidative activities by FRAP, ORAC, and H2O2 scavenging assays. According to the results, stilbenes rapidly degraded during storage, whereas tannins were more stable: only 5–7% of the original stilbene amount and ca. 30–50% of the original amount of condensed tannins were found after 24-week-storage. Summer conditions led to the faster modification of bark chemistry than winter conditions. Changes in antioxidative activity were less pronounced than those of analyzed chemical compounds, indicating that the derivatives of the compounds contribute to the antioxidative activity. The results of the assays showed that, on average, ca. 27% of the original antioxidative capacity remained 24 weeks after the onset of the storage treatment, while a large variation (2–95% of the original capacity remaining) was found between assays, seasons, and bark layers. Inner bark preserved its activities longer than outer bark, and intact bark attached to timber is expected to maintain its activities longer than a debarked one. Thus, to ensure prolonged quality, no debarking before storage is suggested: outer bark protects the inner bark, and debarking enhances the degradation.

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Section: Resultssupporting

confidence: 93%

Fate of Antioxidative Compounds within Bark during Storage: A Case of Norway Spruce Logs

et al. 2020

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“…The methanolic bark extract of Picea abies exhibited significant antimicrobial, antioxidant, antielastase and anticollagenase activities [12]. In the present work, this bioactive methanol extract was fractionated by Centrifugal Partition Chromatography (CPC) and the resulting fractions were evaluated for their antibacterial and antioxidant activity as well as for their capacity to inhibit tyrosinase, elastase and collagenase activities.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Bio-Guided Isolation of Methanol-Soluble Metabolites of Common Spruce (Picea abies) Bark by-Products and Investigation of Their Dermo-Cosmetic Properties

et al. 2016

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Abstract:Common spruce (Picea abies L.) is a fast-growing coniferous tree, widely used in several countries for the production of sawn wood, timber and pulp. During this industrial exploitation, large quantities of barks are generated as waste materials. The aim of this study was the bio-guided investigation and the effective recovery of methanol-soluble metabolites of common spruce bark for the development of new dermo-cosmetic agents. The active methanol extract was initially fractionated by Centrifugal Partition Chromatography (CPC) using a triphasic solvent system in a step-gradient elution mode. All resulting fractions were evaluated for their antibacterial activity, antioxidant activity and their capability to inhibit tyrosinase, elastase and collagenase activity. In parallel, the chemical composition of each fraction was established by combining a 13 C-NMR dereplication approach and 2D-NMR analyses. As a result, fourteen secondary metabolites corresponding to stilbene, flavonoid and phenolic acid derivatives were directly identified in the CPC fractions. A high amount (0.93 g) of E-astringin was recovered from 3 g of crude extract in a single 125 min run. E-Astringin significantly induced the tyrosinase activity while E-piceid, taxifolin, and taxifolin-3 -O-glucopyranoside exhibited significant anti-tyrosinase activity. The above compounds showed important anti-collagenase and antimicrobial activities, thus providing new perspectives for potential applications as cosmetic ingredients.

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“… 18 Regarding the antioxidant properties of the green tea extract, these are mainly due to the catechin epigallocatechin-3-gallate – a biologically active polyphenolic compound of green tea that has both direct and indirect antioxidant properties at the cellular level, including scavenging of free radicals, inhibition of ROS-generating enzymes, and reduction of inflammatory cytokines, and above all, chelation of metal ions. 19 , 20 Lastly, results from a recently published in vitro study 21 showed that the methanol extracts of Q. robur (oak) bark extract have high radical scavenging capacity, elastase, collagenase, tyrosinase inhibitory activities, and antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus .…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

In vivo validation of the multicomponent powder (Vitachelox<sup>®</sup>) against the deposition of polluting ions

Giacomelli

Togni

Meneghin

et al. 2018

CCID

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PurposeThe purpose of this in vivo study is to evaluate the acute clinical application of a multicomponent powder (Vitachelox®), including three naturally occurring standardized extracts rich in polyphenols (grape seed extract, green tea extract, oak wood/bark extract), on healthy volunteers by measuring prevention of any metal deposition within the stratum corneum (SC) following a 6-h exposure period in a polluted environment.Patients and methodsIn this in vivo study, we evaluated the skin protective activity of the multicomponent powder formulated in a base emulsion compared to a relevant placebo cream. Using the tape stripping method, SC samples of face skin obtained from 30 healthy volunteers were compared following a 6-h exposure in a polluted area.ResultsNo statistically significant variations on the amount of heavy metals were found in the samples of SC cells obtained from the hemi-faces treated with the multicomponent powder, with respect to baseline. On the contrary, a significantly higher concentration of heavy metals was found in the cells samples obtained from the hemi-faces treated with the placebo cream. In particular, an increased concentration of heavy metals superior to 100% were found for iron and zinc (+130.2% and +142.6%, respectively; p<0.001).ConclusionThis in vivo study validates and extends previous in vitro findings, indicating that the multicomponent powder allows the prevention of any metal deposition within the SC following exposure in a polluted environment. Our results suggest that the test product could play an effective role in counteracting skin damages induced by air pollution.

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In Vitro Dermo-Cosmetic Evaluation of Bark Extracts from Common Temperate Trees

Cited by 37 publications

References 38 publications

Fate of Antioxidative Compounds within Bark during Storage: A Case of Norway Spruce Logs

Fate of Antioxidative Compounds within Bark during Storage: A Case of Norway Spruce Logs

Bio-Guided Isolation of Methanol-Soluble Metabolites of Common Spruce (Picea abies) Bark by-Products and Investigation of Their Dermo-Cosmetic Properties

In vivo validation of the multicomponent powder (Vitachelox<sup>®</sup>) against the deposition of polluting ions

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In Vitro Dermo-Cosmetic Evaluation of Bark Extracts from Common Temperate Trees

Cited by 37 publications

References 38 publications

Fate of Antioxidative Compounds within Bark during Storage: A Case of Norway Spruce Logs

Fate of Antioxidative Compounds within Bark during Storage: A Case of Norway Spruce Logs

Bio-Guided Isolation of Methanol-Soluble Metabolites of Common Spruce (Picea abies) Bark by-Products and Investigation of Their Dermo-Cosmetic Properties

In vivo validation of the multicomponent powder (Vitachelox<sup>&reg;</sup>) against the deposition of polluting ions

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Product

Resources

About

In vivo validation of the multicomponent powder (Vitachelox<sup>®</sup>) against the deposition of polluting ions