Profiling and predicting performance of indoor rock climbers

Abstract

The aim of this study is to establish somatotype and profile the anthropometric and biomotor characteristics of indoor rock climbers. Fourteen elite level male and ten recreational female Iranian indoor rock climbers completed a battery of tests. All anthropometric measurements were performed according to the recommendations of international standards for anthropometric assessment. Upper body strength and endurance were assessed by isometric tests. Explosive power and balance were also evaluated by Sargent jump and Star Excursion Balance Test (SEBT), respectively. Samples’ somatotypes were calculated by the method of Heath and Carter. Pearson’s correlation coefficient and partial correlations were calculated and stepwise multiple regression analyses were implemented to determine a set of best predictors of elite male climbers’ ability. Shoulder width, body fat content, upper-body strength and endurance for females, showed the most correlation with the climbing ability (range: r = 0.46–0.7, p ≤ 0.05), while among the male samples, these correlations with the climbing ability were mostly between WHR, absolute and relative to body mass handgrip strength, SEBT performance and the left-hand digit ratio. The results of stepwise multiple regression revealed that the SEBT performance in the posterior direction of right foot stance and Upper Extremity Girth Index are able to explain 62% of the variance of climbing ability. It is likely that decreasing the fat mass has no direct impact on the climbers’ performance. Also, SEBT performance is able to predict 35% of climbing performance. Hence, it seems balance exercises could be effective in improvement of climbing performance.

Comparison of Grip Strength in Recreational Climbers and Non-Climbing Athletes—A Cross-Sectional Study

“…Our forearm measurements, however, were comparable for the untrained cohort (28.3 cm vs. 26.02 cm, while we measured 26.9 cm vs. 26.17 cm). Nonetheless, the differences 10 cm below lateral epicondyle that we detected, can be similarly seen in the study by Tomaszewski et al, indicating that specific body compositions such as forearm volume favor climbing performance [ 13 ], which is additionally confirmed in a study by Arazi et al [ 4 ]. The group of Ozimek et al measured twenty climbing athletes with an IRCRA-level of 25–27 and 22–23, therein comparing elite and advanced climbers.…”

“…All of these reached forces were higher compared to our findings. One reason could be that Azari et al used a digital hand dynamometer (Saehan) and pincer dynamometer (Pinch Gauge) to measure grip strength, and the highest values were recorded [ 4 ]. On the other side, we measured the mean of two samples each.…”

“…For the climbing sport, the rise in popularity came with a rise in the number of recreational climbing athletes [ 1 , 2 , 3 , 4 ]. Throughout the literature, highly advanced climbers, the elite of their profession, are well-characterized.…”

2D:4D ratio as marker of prenatal androgenization and its predictor validity for anthropologists and evolutionary psychologists: “pro” and “contra”

“…Ñïîðòñìåíû òàêaeå îòëè÷àþòñÿ íàáîðîì áîëåå ìàñêóëèííûõ ÷åðò è ïðåäñòàâëÿþò ñîáîé îäèí èç àäàïòèâíûõ ìîðôî-ïñèõîëîãè÷åñêèõ òèïîâ, ñâÿçàííûõ ñ óðîâíåì òåñòîñòåðîíà ó ìóae÷èí [Áóòîâñêàÿ ñ ñîàâò., 2010;Áóòîâñêàÿ, Áóaeèëîâà, 2016;Arazi et al, 2018]. Ê òàêèì ÷åðòàì íåîáõîäèìî äîáàâëÿòü è íèçêèé ïàëüöåâîé èíäåêñ, êîòîðûé çàôèêñèðîâàí âî ìíîãèõ èññëåäîâàíèÿõ ñðåäè ñïîðòñìåíîâ [Áóòîâñêàÿ ñ ñîàâò., 2017;Ribeiro et al, 2016;Gallup, Fink, 2018].…”

Sustainable combinations of morpho-functional and personality traits of men engaged in high-risk professions

“…Òàê, â îòäåëüíûé àäàïòèâíûé òèï ìîãóò áûòü âûäåëåíû ñïîðòñìåíû. Îòëè÷èòåëüíîå ÷åðòîé ýòîãî òèïà ÿâëÿåòñÿ áËëüøàÿ ìàñêóëèííîñòü ÷åðò (ïðè ñðàâíåíèè ñ êîíòðîëåì) [Áóòîâñêàÿ ñ ñîàâò., 2010;Áóòîâñêàÿ, Áóaeèëîâà, 2016;Áóòîâñêàÿ ñ ñîàâò., 2017;Manning, Tailor, 2001;Arazi et al, 2018]. Âûðàaeåííîñòü ÷åðò ìàñêóëèííîãî êîìïëåêñà (ñèëà, ñìåëîñòü, õîðîøàÿ ïðîñòðàíñòâåííàÿ îðèåíòàöèÿ è ò.ï.)…”