Hydrolyzed collagen interferes with in vitro photoprotective effectiveness of sunscreens

Abstract

The chronological skin aging is a progressive and natural process with genetic and physiological changes. However, ultraviolet (UV) radiation may accelerate the oxidative stress, generating carcinogenesis and photoaging. Natural compounds and their applications are considered a trend in the cosmetic market. The protein-based film-forming compounds play an important role, once it collaborates for the better distribution of sunscreens on the skin. Here we investigated the in vitro photoprotective effectiveness of sunscreens containing the hydrolyzed collagen associated with UVA, UVB and/or inorganic filters. Sunscreens were developed with octocrylene (7.5%), butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (avobenzone) (3.0%) and/or titanium dioxide (5.0%), associated or not with the hydrolyzed collagen (3.0%). In vitro photoprotective effectiveness was determined in a Labsphere ® UV2000S by the establishment of the sun protection factor (SPF) and critical wavelength (nm) values. Physicochemical and organoleptic characteristics were also assayed. The hydrolyzed collagen subjectively improved the formulation sensory characteristics. However, this bioactive compound led to a decrease of the SPF values of the photoprotective formulations containing octocrylene alone and octocrylene + butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane + TiO 2. This inadequate interaction may be considered during the development of new sunscreens intended to contain protein-based components.

The Synergistic Behavior of Antioxidant Phenolic Compounds Obtained from Winemaking Waste’s Valorization, Increased the Efficacy of a Sunscreen System

“…The antioxidant activity of the formulations (F1–F6) was examined according to the method described in item 2.3.2 [15,20,21,22]. Sample aliquots of formulations II and III (1 g) containing 10% crude pomace extract were solubilized in methanol at concentrations of 1 mg mL −1 and sonicated for 20 min.…”

“…The sun protection factor (SPF) of F1 to F6 was determined in vitro with a diffuse reflectance spectrophotometer with an integration sphere (Labsphere Inc., North Sutton, NH, USA) [22,23,24]. Samples were weighed on an analytical balance (Shimadzu ® AUY 220) and uniformly applied over polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) (HelioScreen ® Helioplate HD 6, North Sutton, NH, USA) plates at 0.75 mg cm –2 , kept at room temperature (22.0 ± 2.0 °C) and protected from the light for 15 min.…”

Research Progress on Nutritional Value, Preservation and Processing of Fish—A Review

“…Collagen is widely used in cosmetic products as an anti-ageing agent due to its useful biological effects [ 162 ]. Gelatine is the resultant product of collagen derived from fish processing by-products such as skin, bones, scales and internal organs of various fish species through thermal denaturation and partial hydrolysis.…”

Vaccinium myrtillus L. extract associated with octocrylene, bisoctrizole, and titanium dioxide: in vitro and in vivo tests to evaluate safety and efficacy

“…For over a decade, our research group has been working with flavonoids and other polyphenols of fruits, vegetables and a variety of higher plants to improve photoprotection 9‐17 . Moreover, the use of secondary metabolites is interesting for their abilities to absorb radiations in the region of 240–285 nm, as well as 300–550 nm, 18 which is very close to the UV spectrum of 290–320 nm (UVB) and 320–400 nm (UVA).…”

“…4 For over a decade, our research group has been working with flavonoids and other polyphenols of fruits, vegetables and a variety of higher plants to improve photoprotection. [9][10][11][12][13][14][15][16][17] Moreover, the use of secondary metabolites is interesting for their abilities to absorb radiations in the region of 240-285 nm, as well as 300-550 nm, 18 which is very close to the UV spectrum of 290-320 nm (UVB) and 320-400 nm (UVA). Since their structure and UV absorption capacity are similar to organic UV filters, these molecules represent a great potential to enhance the photoprotective efficacy of new formulations.…”