The structure activity relationship of polyhydroxylated benzamide derivatives for whitening effects was examined. The adamantyl benzamide derivatives with catechol (3,4-dihydroxyphenyl) of B-ring part showed good anti-melanogenesis activity, but the inhibitory activity of mono-hydroxyphenyl (3-OH or 4-OH) or 3,4-dimethoxyphenyl substituted derivatives was decreased or lost. Therefore the catechol unit was appeared to be the crucial factor for the inhibition of melanogenesis. And the existence of 2-OH of A-ring part had minor influence on the activity, the length of carbon chain between A-ring and B-ring was also not the major factor for the anti-melanogenesis activity.
Abstract:This study is about the development of cholesteric liquid crystals (CLCs), which are highly applicable to cosmetics formulation. The CLCs made from non-animal origin were chosen not only because they are free of animal viruses but also because they give a sense of security to the cosmetic consumers. Three kinds of new cholesteric derivatives (CI, CC, CN) were synthesized using non-animal cholesterol [NAB cholesterol (ARCH LONZA)], which was originally made by fermentation process. To develop high applicability to cosmetics formulation, we attempted to find out the optimum compositions in which CLCs can maintain their color over a wide range of temperature. The CLCs in 41 different compositions were prepared by the combinations of three cholesteric derivatives and a visual evaluation method was employed to determine the range of temperature at which the CLCs display their color. The 205 UV-VIS spectral data obtained from 41 CLCs at various temperatures were simultaneously analyzed to investigate the critical factors affecting the characteristics of the CLCs. Results showed that A4, A5, A6 and A7 were the best compositions to cosmetics formulation. A6 composition had a great moisturizing effect by the artificial skin test (AmoReSkin TM ).
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