Oil-in-water nanoemulsions of astaxanthin prepared by new vesicle, glyceryl citrate/ lactate/ linoleate/ oleate, were evaluated thoroughly in terms of cosmeceutical properties such as antioxidant effect, cell viability, influence of protein related enzyme, skin penetration, skin hydration and elasticity. Antioxidant effect and cell viability of nanoemulsion of astaxanthin were evaluated by DPPH and MTT assay. Also other properties of nanoemulsions of astaxanthin were measured by proteome analysis using 2D-PAGE, confocal laser scanning microscope and in-vivo test. We were able to find that the nanoemulsion of astaxanthin is good at scavenging of radical and inhibits the degradation of dermal extracellular matrix with the down-regulation of MMPs and other proteins related to MMP expression. CLSM was adopted for observing penetration of nanoemulsion of astaxanthin and showed high effective penetration rate compared to the nanoemulsion of astaxanthin prepared by conventional lecithin. In-vivo measurement of the nanoemulsions in hydration and elasticity were conducted to 11 Korean female adults for 28 days and showed better results.
1) Studies were made to improve the stability of astaxanthin which has application limitations caused by light and thermal stability problems in spite of its strong anti-oxidant property. Astaxanthin was extracted from Haematococcus pluvialis with supercritical carbon dioxide. Liposomal encapsulation of astaxanthin to improve the stability was made with high pressure homogenizer. The narrow size distribution was observed with astaxanthin liposomes. Tests on light and thermal stabilities resulted that the liposormal encapsulation improved the stability of astaxanthin for cosmeceutical purposes.
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