This special issue employs food practices to document the on-the-ground experiences of and sentiments toward the EU by the citizens of the EU Eastern Enlargement. As the ʻdual-qualityʼ scandal makes clear, food is never just food. Foodways express ethical positions and political deliberations about 'good' and 'just' ways of life and play a fundamental role in many areas that make us social animals. While sustenance preoccupies economies and governments, it is hard to envision practices of sociability, identity, religion, and social class without food at the centre of such distinctions. Food is not only a lens, but also a tool for translating distant and abstract, yet acutely felt social processes-like economic crises, or
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