We present an idealised process-based model to study the possibly resonant response of closed basins subject to periodic wind forcing. Two solution methods are adopted: a collocation technique (valid for arbitrary rotation) and an analytical expansion (assuming weak rotation). The spectral response, as obtained from our model, displays resonance peaks, which we explain by linking them to the spatial pattern of the wind forcing, the along-wind and cross-wind basin dimensions as well as the influence of rotation. Increasing bottom friction lowers the peaks. Finally, we illustrate how the spectral response is reflected in the time-dependent set-up due to a single wind event.
We develop an idealised one dimensional (cross-shore) morphodynamic model that 6 couples wave, tide and sediment dynamics to study the effect and evolution of a 7 shoreface nourishment. Sediment fluxes driven by wave skewness, wave asymmetry 8 (both onshore) and return flow (offshore) are considered. With the aid of new an-9 alytical expressions for the skewness and standard deviation of wave velocity and acceleration, sediment fluxes are calculated. Nourishment is viewed as a perturbation to the system in equilibrium that is subject to the divergence of the perturbed sediment flux and a gravity driven diffusion term. Depending on the location, a nourishment may provide a feeder or lee effect. In moderate and mild wave conditions, the evolution of a nourishment primarily depends on the relative location of nourishment and break point. Placed well offshore of the break point, the nourishment induces an overall positive perturbation in sediment flux, resulting in onshore migration (feeder effect). Located closer to the break point, the nourishment induces an earlier wave breaking, which dissipates part of the wave energy (lee effect), leading to a negative sediment flux perturbation around this break point and a positive sediment flux perturbation around the break point of the un-nourished beach. Depending on the intensity of the earlier breaking, the nourishment either migrates onshore (weak break) or splits into onshore and offshore moving parts (strong break). The relative importance of the diffusion term and the divergence of perturbed sediment flux may lead to a primarily migrating or decaying evolution of nourishment. In storm wave conditions, the nourishment tends to move offshore due to the predominance of return flow driven sediment flux. The sensitivity to wave period and tide are also studied. Model results are consistent with observations, as well as prevailing theory on cross-shore sediment transport.
Because wind is one of the main forcings in storm surge, we present an idealised process-based model to study the influence of topographic variations on the frequency response of large-scale coastal basins subject to time-periodic wind forcing. Coastal basins are represented by a semi-enclosed rectangular inner region forced by wind. It is connected to an outer region (represented as an infinitely long channel) without wind forcing, which allows waves to freely propagate outward. The model solves the three-dimensional linearised shallow water equations on the f plane, forced by a spatially uniform wind field that has an arbitrary angle with respect to the along-basin direction. Turbulence is represented using a spatially uniform vertical eddy viscosity, combined with a partial slip condition at the bed. The surface elevation amplitudes, and hence This article is part of the Topical Collection on
The stepwise hydration of clay minerals has been observed repeatedly in studies, but the underlying mechanism remains unclear. Previous numerical studies confirmed the presence of one-water layer (1W) and two-water layer (2W) hydration states. However, the undisturbed transition between these hydration states has never been captured. Using molecular dynamics simulation, this study (i) simulated for the first time the free 1W–2W transition during clay hydration and (ii) identified the underlying mechanism to be the detachment of cations from the clay surface and the formation of a shell of water molecules around the cation. The swelling dynamics of clay was found to be affected by the clay charge, clay mineralogy, and counterions through complex cation–clay interactions, cation hydration capacity, and cation migration rate.
The hydrodynamics in Lake Naivasha, a shallow endorheic lake, are simulated using the Delft3D Flow Module to investigate the major driving forces of hydrodynamics in the lake. The results showed wind as the major forcing. The shallow zones of the lake showed currents movement in the same direction as the wind while the deep zones showed currents movements against the wind direction. These findings were confirmed and further explained using an idealized model. Limited exchange between the Crescent Lake (crater lake which is temporally separated from the lake during low water levels) and the main lake was observed. These findings can explain the spatial variability of the water quality in the lake. Similar studies could be used in exploratory studies of the spatial-temporal variability in water quality in other shallow water systems.
Coastal erosion poses an urgent threat to life and property in low-lying regions. Sand nourishment is increasingly used as a nature-based solution but requires significant natural resources and replenishment over time. In this study, a novel form of nourishment is explored that combines shoreface nourishment and seagrass restoration to mitigate coastal erosion (i.e., green nourishment). Using the coastal morphodynamic model Xbeach, the impact of seagrass planting on wave energy dissipation, sediment erosion and transport, and morphological evolution of a cross-shore profile was studied for mild wave conditions and an intense storm. Model results indicate that a seagrass meadow enhances the wave energy dissipation provided by a shoreface nourishment, and suggests that it may be particularly effective in sediment transport mitigation when implemented in a sheltered nearshore area. The shoreface nourishment reduced the wave height on the seagrass meadow, and reduced the rate of seagrass destruction by deposition or erosion above the grass height after the storm event. Green nourishment also reduced beach foreshore erosion caused by a simulated storm event. An alternative, more cost-effective planting technique using seagrass seeds was explored, which showed similar coastal erosion protection benefits for seagrass transplants. This modeling study found that green nourishment is potentially an effective nature-based solution for coastal erosion and flooding on sandy coasts, and future studies are recommended to evaluate its morphological, ecological and flood risk reduction benefits in the field.
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