Part II of this series reports on an experimental investigation to establish the relationship between mechanical properties of fused composites and those of the outer and fusible interlining fabrics. A set of equations is proposed to predict low stress mechanical properties of fused composites from those of the outer and fusible interlining fabrics based on fast fabric objective measurements.
This is the first of a three-part series of papers reporting on the development of an objective method of selecting compatible fusible interlinings for different outer fabrics to achieve superior garment handle and drape in tailored garments. Part I reports on the experimental work that establishes the desirable range of mechanical properties of fused composites for the front parts of tailored jackets, excluding the lapels and collars. A control chart for the mechanical properties of fused composites for these garment parts is proposed for objectively evaluating the compatibility of the outer and fusible interlining fabrics. Part II studies the relationship between the mechanical properties of the fused composites and their constituent fabrics and fusible interlinings. Part III proposes a method of selecting compatible fusible interlinings based on FAST fabric objective measurement results.
Based on the desirable range for mechanical properties of fused composites and the relationship between these properties and those of the outer and fusible interlining fabrics already reported in Parts I and II of this series, a set of equations is derived in this part to estimate the desirable range of mechanical properties for these interlinings. Based on the predictions of the mechanical properties, an objective method is proposed for selecting a compatible interlining for a specific outer fabric. The practical application of this method is demonstrated by examples.
Examines the causes of rippling, localized delamination or surface distortion in fused garment theoretically and experimentally. On the basis of this study proposes a parameter, called rippling potential, to combine the effects of bond strength, differential shrinkage, compliance of outer fabrics and fusible interlinings and fabric formability on the degree of rippling. Suggests preventive measures to avoid rippling in fused garment parts.
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