Purpose -The purpose of this paper is to investigate the influence of embroidering technological parameters, of knitted material structure and of either using or not nonwoven material for backing on the quality of restangular embroidered element; based on the obtained results to select the optimal technological parameters for the embroidering of original clothing element avoiding the higher time expenses for the technical development process of new product. Design/methodology/approach -The new methodology for the optimization of technology of original embroidered clothing element is based on the measurements of simple geometric element. Findings -The methodology of technology optimisation based on the measurement of restangular element geometric parameters can also be applied for the optimization of the embroidering technology of advanced design elements.Research limitations/implications -The present study was carried out investigating knitted materials, but its methodology may be used for woven fabrics also, as their elongation rate is lower than one of knitted materials. Originality/value -Development of the embroidering technology of original clothing element is based on the scientific approach and industrial experience.
Purpose The purpose of this paper is to evaluate the air permeability of knitted fabrics containing elastane fibre and their seams applying both the new approach based on fabric thickness measurement at different pressures and standard method. Design/methodology/approach Investigations were performed with commercially available eight polyester knitted fabrics containing different elastane yarn proportion. Bonded seams were laminated applying the urethane thermoplastic adhesive film of 0.175 mm thickness. Bonds were laminated by heat at 5.6 kPa pressure applying pressing device GTK DEA 25 R at 140°C temperature for 40 s duration. Sewn seams were assembled with 607 covering chain stitch applying 5.0 stitches per cm density and 512 overedge chain stitch applying 5.0 stitches per cm density. Specimens without and with the seams were conditioned in standard atmosphere conditions according to the standard LST EN ISO 139 before air permeability testing according to the standard LST EN ISO 9237. Standard thickness of the investigated knitted fabric was determined according to the standard EN ISO 5084. It is known from literature that the porosity is dominant factor influencing the air permeability of knitted fabrics. Therefore, the assumption was made that due to fabric porosity knitted fabric thickness being measured at different pressures also may differ. Thus, the permeability property may also be related to the difference between fabric’s thicknesses being measured under different pressures which may be applied with different material thickness gauges. Findings There was shown that fabric assemblies make the significant influence on the textile permeability to air. The results obtained indicate that the air permeability of the investigated knitted fabrics depends not only on their structure parameters but also on the fabric seam type. Air permeability of the specimens with the seams was lower than one of specimens without the seams. The highest decrease in permeability which ranged from 19.9 per cent up to 60.0 per cent was determined for the bonds. Fabric specimens with 607 covering chain stitch seam were in the second place with regard to the previously considered parameter. And, their permeability was decreased from 0.6 per cent up to 52.6 per cent. Changes in the air permeability of the specimens with 512 overedge chain stitch seam were lowest in the range of investigated assemblies. Based on the determined results, it was concluded that the thickness difference of the specimens with and without seams measured at different pressures is related to fabric porosity which makes the significant influence on the air permeability. Practical implications The samples of investigated fabrics were taken from the two companies which manufactures leisure clothing and sportswear such as skiing or swimming costumes, etc. Thus, the obtained investigation results are significant not only for clothing science but also leads the improvement of clothing quality in fashion industry. Originality/value Assuring the comfort of the human body is one of the most important functions of clothing, especially of sportswear and leisure wear. Knitted fabrics should not only be elastic, but also have high air permeability for easily transmit of the perspiration from the skin to the atmosphere, thus making the wearer to feel comfortable. In this research, the air permeability of commercially available polyester knitted fabrics containing different amount of elastane was investigated and the influence of fabric assemblies on the air permeability property was evaluated. A new approach based on the fabric thickness measurement at different pressures and the standard methods for the evaluation of air permeability were used.
Different types of chemical treatment of textile are widely applied in advanced textile. Finishing of textile can provide additional functional properties for products or/and to improve the appearance of final product as well as to improve their mechanical properties. In this research the influence of the industrial treatment of viscose linings on the parameters of fabric surface friction, on fabric surface appearance as well as on the slippage resistance of yarns at a seam was investigated. Raw, dyed, dyed and softened, dyed and non-slip finished plain weaved linings were investigated. The slippage resistance of yarns at a seam in woven fabrics was evaluated according to standard EN ISO 13936-1:2004. The friction was investigated according to the standard DIN 53375 in a fabric-fabric friction pair. Surface of raw, dyed, dyed and softened viscose lining was investigated using SEM. The obtained results have shown that the friction parameters as well as the parameters of seam slippage resistance of dyed or dyed and softened fabrics were higher than the ones of raw fabric. The highest differences in those parameters were obtained for lining that was dyed and treated with non-slip finishing. That type of finishing influenced the break of lining yarns without typical to the other investigated linings slipping near a stitching line.
Different fiber blends, knit patterns, and treatments may be applied to increase the functionality and comfort of knitted fabrics. In this research, the physical properties and bending stiffness of 1 × 1 rib and half-milano rib fabrics with four fiber blends (90% cotton/10% antistatic PET, 80% cotton/20% antistatic PET, 70% cotton/30% antistatic PET, and 65% cotton/35% antistatic PET) applied to each knit pattern were studied. The effect of fabric direction (course and wale), technical side (face side and back side), and treatment (dying, softening with Aquasoft® SI hydrophilic softener, and Polygiene VO-600 antibacterial finish) on the physical characteristics and bending stiffness of the fabrics was evaluated. The results revealed that dyeing and softening increased the fabric area density and both wale and course densities and decreased fabric thicknesses compared to the control fabrics. The antibacterial finish applied to the softened samples did not change the physical properties. Bending stiffness in the course direction was lower than in the wale direction, and it was higher for technical face samples than for technical back ones. The 1 × 1 rib knitted fabrics showed lower stiffness than the half-milano rib fabrics. Treatment of the investigated fabrics decreased bending stiffness for both treatment sample groups compared to the control group.
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