Evaluation of the air permeability of elastic knitted fabrics and their assemblies

Abstract

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to evaluate the air permeability of knitted fabrics containing elastane fibre and their seams applying both the new approach based on fabric thickness measurement at different pressures and standard method. Design/methodology/approach Investigations were performed with commercially available eight polyester knitted fabrics containing different elastane yarn proportion. Bonded seams were laminated applying the urethane thermoplastic adhesive film of 0.175 mm thickness. Bonds were laminated by heat at 5.6 kPa pressure applying pressing device GTK DEA 25 R at 140°C temperature for 40 s duration. Sewn seams were assembled with 607 covering chain stitch applying 5.0 stitches per cm density and 512 overedge chain stitch applying 5.0 stitches per cm density. Specimens without and with the seams were conditioned in standard atmosphere conditions according to the standard LST EN ISO 139 before air permeability testing according to the standard LST EN ISO 9237. Standard thickness of the investigated knitted fabric was determined according to the standard EN ISO 5084. It is known from literature that the porosity is dominant factor influencing the air permeability of knitted fabrics. Therefore, the assumption was made that due to fabric porosity knitted fabric thickness being measured at different pressures also may differ. Thus, the permeability property may also be related to the difference between fabric’s thicknesses being measured under different pressures which may be applied with different material thickness gauges. Findings There was shown that fabric assemblies make the significant influence on the textile permeability to air. The results obtained indicate that the air permeability of the investigated knitted fabrics depends not only on their structure parameters but also on the fabric seam type. Air permeability of the specimens with the seams was lower than one of specimens without the seams. The highest decrease in permeability which ranged from 19.9 per cent up to 60.0 per cent was determined for the bonds. Fabric specimens with 607 covering chain stitch seam were in the second place with regard to the previously considered parameter. And, their permeability was decreased from 0.6 per cent up to 52.6 per cent. Changes in the air permeability of the specimens with 512 overedge chain stitch seam were lowest in the range of investigated assemblies. Based on the determined results, it was concluded that the thickness difference of the specimens with and without seams measured at different pressures is related to fabric porosity which makes the significant influence on the air permeability. Practical implications The samples of investigated fabrics were taken from the two companies which manufactures leisure clothing and sportswear such as skiing or swimming costumes, etc. Thus, the obtained investigation results are significant not only for clothing science but also leads the improvement of clothing quality in fashion industry. Originality/value Assuring the comfort of the human body is one of the most important functions of clothing, especially of sportswear and leisure wear. Knitted fabrics should not only be elastic, but also have high air permeability for easily transmit of the perspiration from the skin to the atmosphere, thus making the wearer to feel comfortable. In this research, the air permeability of commercially available polyester knitted fabrics containing different amount of elastane was investigated and the influence of fabric assemblies on the air permeability property was evaluated. A new approach based on the fabric thickness measurement at different pressures and the standard methods for the evaluation of air permeability were used.

Study of the influence of assemblies on knitted materials hand

“…2.2.1 Specimen preparation. The lengthwise fabric strips were cut to 20 mm×80 mm size from control textile samples for both bonding and sewing considering that the technology requirements had been discussed in the previous research (Daukantienė and Vadeikė, 2018). The type of stitches for sewn seams was chosen based on the general requirement for knitted garmentstheir seams should be highly elastic.…”

“…Hand testing was performed with commercially available eight microfibers' polyester-knitted fabrics intended for sportswear (Table I). The detailed structure of the investigated textiles can be seen from the SEM images that have been published in the previous research article (Daukantienė and Vadeikė, 2018). The knitted materials selected for hand study are suitable for the manufacturing of active sport clothes applying both adhesive bonding and sewing technologies.…”

Comfort perception of tight winter-based sportswear

“…, 2013; Havelka et al. , 2015; Grujic and Geršak, 2016; Daukantiene and Vadeike, 2018; Mandal et al. , 2019; Cheng and Chen, 2019; Silina et al.…”

“…Although most scholars have evaluated subjective comfort, most of them only analyzed pressure or heat-humidity comfort separately (Troynikov et al, 2013;Havelka et al, 2015;Grujic and Ger sak, 2016;Daukantiene and Vadeike, 2018;Mandal et al, 2019;Cheng and Chen, 2019;Silina et al, 2019;Uren and Okur, 2019;Lee et al, 2020;Vasile et al, 2021). When people wear clothes, comfort is not only caused by pressure or heat-humidity, which may be caused by some senses such as pressure, heat-humidity and even tactile.…”

Intelligent research on wearing comfort of tight sportswear during exercise

“…Wardiningsih and Troynikov 19 determined the effect of fabric direction, fabric composition and number of fabric layers on pressure generated by sport compression garments. Virginija and Giedre 20 found that the air permeability of the investigated knitted fabrics depends not only on their structure parameters but also on the fabric seam type. Some scholars have also studied sports comfort, but they are only limited to pressure or thermal-humidity, and have not conducted systematic research.…”