The article considers the mechanism of combining 3D and 2D-design methods based on the combination of modules of 3D-digital modification of the morphological structure of the body and 2D-generation of sweep details of the jacket. The mechanism of formation of the integrated design system for transformation of a surface of a body into silhouette designs on the basis of geometrical modeling has been offered. The selection of optimal divisions of the mannequin surface on the basis of identification of zones of stable deformations of the grid with regular topology is theoretically substantiated. Has been shown that the maximum compression deformation in the range of overall dimensions characterizes the parametric levels of darts in the product design. The affine transformations by the operation “shift” of the mannequin surface scan into three basic silhouettes of the jacket design were experimentally investigated. Parametrical transformation of silhouette designs have been realized by schemes of designs and the reference book of standard movements. Homogeneity of details’ construction of the sketch project of interchangeable models system has been estimated by coefficients of constructive homogeneity of silhouette designs and technological homogeneity of model functional knots. The algorithm of formation of the integrated design system of 3D and 2D-design is developed and its practical application on an example of the development of a series of interchangeable models of a jacket is shown.

Проведеними дослідженнями впливу бази даних на процеси формування універсальної конструкції встановлено механізм інтерактивного застосування кластерів розмірних ознак. Доведено, що типологічний ряд конструктивного розміру характеризує умовну типову фігуру молодіжного типу. Завдяки цьому стало можливим визначення рухомості конструктивних зон відповідно до морфологічних особливостей будови тіла на стадіях побудови основи конструкції. Експериментальними дослідженнями підтверджено, що межі функціональних ділянок у групуванні конструктивних зон підпорядковані мінливості приростів основних конструктивних точок. Це призводить до поліваріантності контурів тазової ділянки для формування властивостей співрозмірності штанів. Зокрема, встановлено, що завдяки ідентифікації подібності конструкцій за коефіцієнтом масштабування, адекватність бази даних підвищується шляхом координації інформаційної бази для побудови конструктивних зон. Це дозволяє стверджувати про достовірність механізму формування кластерів антропометричної бази даних та практичну привабливість запропонованої технології інтерактивного конструювання. Показано, що дисперсія приростів забезпечує деконструкцію замкненого контуру деталі в точках зміни функціональних ділянок, що є перевагами дослідження. Показано перспективність розширення діапазону морфологічних типів за віковою ознакою біодинаміки функціональних рухів. Таким чином, є підстави стверджувати про можливість спрямованого регулювання процесів формування універсальної конструкції шляхом використання комплексної бази даних, яка поєднує кластери розмірних ознак, приростів і номенклатуру конструктивних зон Ключові слова: кластер, розмірні ознаки, універсальна конструкція, конструктивні зони, прирости, морфологічне поле

The study reported here has revealed the issue related to the inefficient scaling of the uniformity of jacket model designs in the processes involving a typical representative as a result of modification parameters uncertainty. A variant has been proposed to synchronize the critical points of silhouetted allowances by grouping the numeric series in the vector of choosing the value for an increase in the allowance according to the characteristics of style varieties. The influence of shape-forming segmentation on the formation of a classifier of the structural and technological solutions for a jacket has been determined. The built model to support modification vectors has made it possible to describe the sequence of procedures execution by the method of typical representation. The presence of one design category, the same structural parts, the uniformity of style simplifies the processes of choosing and selecting the most characteristic models of the jacket. It was found that the morphological combination of attributes of the physical appearance affects the adjustment of style preferences in a manufacturer’s products. The parameters for typical segmentation relative to the junction points of the structural zones of the optimized five-seam prototype design have been defined as the most influential vectors of jacket modification. A method for scaling the allowance for free fitting has been devised on the basis of data from empirical research. An adequate regression model has been derived for normalizing the silhouette allowance parameters. The constructed model makes it possible to scale silhouette structures by changing the increments at the corner points of the contour according to the prototype of gradation under an automated mode. Practical recommendations have been compiled on the parameters of zonal-modular modification of silhouette designs of jacket varieties: a linear character of the state silhouetted transformation relative to ASi1=5 cm. The normalized parameters for constructing functional and decorative parts have been proposed

The problem of unification of forms of technical description by grouping of types of clothes by functional purpose is investigated. An empirically substantiated empirical database of technical description for the analysis of the optimal version of the control information about the conformity of the sample-reference. Intertype unification is used in nodes not subordinated to the main size: overlays, pockets, collars, cuffs. The pockets are not subject to the size of the unified structural basis, so they are grouped into a module of types of pockets. The mechanism of detection of discrepancies in control measurements of models of a product between standard unified constructive bases and details of models of pockets is offered. The main feature of the basic unified structures is that when changing the design increase, the lengths of the sections change only at the level of the armhole, waist and bottom (files and backs). The lengths of the remaining segments remain constant. The basic bases of the pants design have a constant value of balance and a constant position of the horizontal design lines (waist, hips, knees, bottom). The choice of design and technological solutions given in the technical description on the model of trousers and overalls is made. A matrix of combinations of technical information for control of constant data in a group document is proposed. The module of sorting of forms of the technical description of foreign firms for fixing of unification of constructive and technological parameters of performance of the basic knots of a product is developed. The use in the forms of technical documentation of gradation of the level of quality on the basis of homogeneity of manufacturing technology is based on imitation of the general constructive elements. The results of the calculation of the repetition rate for waistwear confirm the homogeneity of the modifications and the affiliation of units that are not subject to the main size to the design document of the group.

This paper has established that one of the directions to correct a designer’s idea is the close relationship between the metric characteristics of a model and the dynamics of updating the shape structure. The need to convolute information about model varieties of a men’s jacket is due to the cyclical nature of fashion. Regression analysis of this study’s results has confirmed the impact of the accumulation of quantitative changes in style attributes on the transition to qualitative changes in shape over 15 years. The periodic repeatability of the five-seam design of a men’s jacket as a typical representative indicates the possibility of using clusters of standard elements. Correlation analysis of the update of mobile attributes (an increase along the waistline and the lapel width) confirms a high level of connection with the silhouette characteristic. Information and analytical material for encoding classification features of the functional components of model designs for an industrial product range collection has been formed. A variant for convoluting the sets of classification features in the process of sampling sorting relative to the basic list of functional nodes has been proposed. The 24×24 compatibility matrix built makes it possible to apply the morphological box method to compare sample sets. The presence of uniformity of the average value of accumulated frequencies Kc.u.=0.72, Kt.u.=0.69 confirms the membership of the sample in the typological series. Having a common encoding system simplifies the selection of models from the internet-based product range collections. The method of sorting the models-proposals of the resulting layout set has been confirmed by the validity coefficient Kv=0.71, which makes it possible to verify the perception of a jacket design as a typical representative of modern structure. Practical recommendations have been compiled on grouping the records of industrial product range collection model codes into industrial series, which enable control over the launch of articles within the manufacturing process.