This paper discusses the effect of applied tension, specimen size, fabric sett, and shear strain on the shear behavior of fabrics using the twist method of measurement. Shear behavior depends critically on applied tension, specimen size, and fabric sett. The specimen size does not seem to affect the coercive shear stress in the nonbuckling region, but with buckling the specimen size significantly affects shear rigidity. , The shear behavior of fabrics is considered an important aspect of such fabric properties such as drape, handle, crease, and surface fitting. Subramaniam et al.[10} have published a comprehensive review on the shear of fabrics. El Messiry and Sheta [2] have described a way to measure shear using the twist method.In an earlier paper [9 ], we demonstrated that such a method can produce a complete shear hysteresis curve, from which various parameters can be extracted to characterize shear behavior. ' This paper is concerned with the effect of applied tension, shear strain, specimen size, and fabric sett on the shear behavior of fabrics. A number of workers have investigated the shear behavior of fabrics, but all these investigations have used the flat method to measure shear. Since the twist method is a departure from existing methods, it will be interesting to see the effect of factors such as applied tension, specimen size, fabric sett, and shear strain on the shear parameters. ' ' ' Experimental We examined two fabrics. One was a 64% polyester/ / 36% viscose of 164 g / m with 29.6 X 22.4 threads / cm. The yarn counts were R 30 tex / 2 X R 30 tex / 2, and the fabric was a plain weave construction. We used this fabric to study the effect of applied tension on shear. The other fabric was a 40% polyester/60% viscose of 190 g/ m 2 with 26 X 19 threads per cm. The yam counts were R 37 tex/2 X R 37 tex/2, and the fabric was a similar plain weave construction. We used this fabric to investigate the effect of specimen size on shear parameters. Both were commercial samples. , To check the effect of fabric sett on shear behavior, a series of three fabrics was woven on a Ruti loom, each with different numbers of picks per cm-12.8, 14.1, and 16. The warp (37 tex, cotton) was common in all cases. These fabrics were then hydroextracted and stentered at 110°C for 1 minute, which effectively set them.We tested shear using the apparatus developed by El-Messiry and Sheta [2] and obtained a complete hysteresis curve as per the procedure outlined in an earlier paper [ 9 ], along with coercive shear stress and shear rigidity. All fabrics were tested after conditioning for 48 hours at 6596 RH and 25°C. ' Results and Discussion Table I shows the results obtained at three levels of applied tension. We see that the coercive shear stress and shear rigidity increase with an increase in applied tension. , I TABLE 1. Effect of applied tension on shear behavior.1 Table II shows that with increasing specimen length, the coercive shear stress and shear rigidity decrease; the drop in coercive shear stress is much less c...