The public awareness and the growing perception of social cognizance about the environment have forced the textile industry to produce environmentally friendly products. For this reason, nowadays many companies and organizations focus on the environmentally friendly way of production. In order to create a sustainable textile, the main change factors have been linked to eco-materials so less and harmless waste, reusing/recycling, lesser usage of energy, water and chemicals and ethical issues in production processes. This article emphasizes the environmental effects of textiles in detail and contributes to cleaner production and sustainability in the textile industry by initiating a discussion on the opportunities for change in textile processes in accordance with the laws.
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In this paper, firstly the effects of environmentally friendly degumming methods on the morphology and structure of fibers have been investigated. Then the dyeing behaviors of environmentally friendly degummed silk fibers were analyzed. In the dyeing process, acid and reactive dyes were used at various dye concentrations. To analyze dyeing characteristics of these fibers, investigations of washing fastness and measurements of color parameters were carried out. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) images of degummed silk fibers showed that the high temperature (HT) degumming method was more successful than the other methods, but the results were comparable. Weight loss values were also supported by SEM images. Scanning electron microscopy with energy-dispersive X-ray analysis of degummed fibers showed that particles remaining on the surface were the most likely to indicate sericin residue. Fourier transform infrared spectra of raw and degummed fibers with different methods demonstrated typical absorption bands appointed to the peptide bonds (-CONH-) and no major differences were observed. When band intensity was examined, the most intense bands belong to the HT degumming process. The differential scanning calorimetry curves of conventionally and alternatively degummed silk fibers showed two endotherms at around 100℃ and 320℃ because of water loss and β-sheet fibroin decomposition, respectively. The acid and reactive dyeing of the degummed fibers by environmentally degumming methods gave similar color strength and washing fastness values compared with conventionally degummed fibers.
In this paper, the effect of degumming processes on the physical performance, surface properties and colour
coordinates of silk fabrics at high temperature and enzymatically, which was developed as an alternative to conventional
method, has been investigated. Degummed silk fabrics were compared in terms of weight loss, bending length, tear and
breaking strength, surface roughness and friction coefficient. After these tests, acid dyeing was performed to observe
different degumming methods effect on dyeing behaviour of degummed silk fabric. The colour coordinates were
evaluated by L*, a*, b*, C*, h0, K/S, and ∆E* values. The results revealed that despite insignificant differences between
conventional and alternative methods in terms of physical performance and surface properties, the conventional method
gave slightly better results than the others. There were no significant differences in colour depth between the two
processes. These reasons showed that the alternative method could be used instead of the traditional method and a
more sustainable process has been designed
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