Tests were carried out with a gonio-photometer to investigate optical properties of silk-like synthetic fiber fabrics. To compare silk-like fabrics with natural silk fabrics, habutai and crepe de chine of silklike synthetic fibers as well as those of natural silk fibers were used as samples. The following results were obtained :1. The difference in optical properties of silk-like and natural silk fabrics can be distinguished by comparing their reflected light distribution curves and quantity of reflection obtained by revolving specimens.2. Little differences have essentialy been found between silk-like and natural silk fabrics. However a detailed observation has revealed that a silk-like fabric has little amount of diffused reflected light and the specular reflected light of a silk-like fabric tends to gather. This causes the visual sensory differences in luster.3. Sensory tests were carried out of a difference in luster of a silk-like and a natural silk fabric. The crepe de chine of a silk-like synthetic fibers can be distinguished from that of natural silk fibers by the difference of degree of creping. By contrast, a habutai of silk-like synthetic fibers can not completely be distinguish from that of natural silk fibers. In other words, a habutai of polyester fibers is much similar in visual luster to that of natural silk fibers.
To calculate the specularly reflected light distribution curve of fabrics a simplified model of the parallel arrangement of elliptical columns was used, and the calculated curves were compared with measurements. The following results are obtained:(1) The same tendency is found for the calculated specular reflection as for the measurement of fabrics.(2) A method is proposed to evaluate the quality and quantity of the gloss of fabrics.
The term "gloss" is defined by dividing the reflected light distribution curve into two components; a specular and a diffuse reflection component. The ratio between two components is proposed.The results obtained are : 1) Shapes of diffusely reflected light distribution curves could be estimated by removing the specular component from reflected light distribution curves. The surface smoothness had a great effect on the shape of the diffusely reflected light distribution curves, resulting in increasing the deviation from the Lambert Law.2) Assuming the most simplified elliptical model, a diffusely reflected light distribution curve was examined, and it was confirmed that the smoothness of the model had a great effect on the deviation of reflected light distribution curve from the Lambert Law.
This paper discusses the optical properties of the so-called Tamamu3 i Fabrics (iridescent fabrics) measured with a goniophotometer.The results obtained are:(1) The factors governing the optical properties of Tamamushi fabrics are considered to be the surface structure of the fabrics, fabric construction, gloss and combination of the colors of warp ends and filling yarns.(2) In order to analyse their optical properties, the reflected light from Tamamushi fabrics should be separated into the specular and the diffuse components.(3) The optical properties of warp ends and filling yarns have an important bearing on the iridescence of Tamamushi fabrics.(4) The color change of Tamamushi fabrics should be discussed from the goniophotometric reflection curves obtained under a monochromatic light resembling the warp ends and filling yarns in color.(5) The larger the hue difference between the warp ends and filling yarns, the larger the change of color on the chromatic diagram.
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