Androgens are the main regulator of normal human hair growth. After puberty, they promote transformation of vellus follicles, producing tiny, unpigmented hairs, to terminal ones, forming larger pigmented hairs, in many areas, e.g. the axilla. However, they have no apparent effect on the eyelashes, but can cause the opposite transformation on the scalp leading to the replacement of terminal hairs by vellus ones and the gradual onset of androgenetic alopecia. This paradox appears to be an unique hormonal effect. Hair follicles are mainly epithelial tissues, continuous with the epidermis, which project into the dermis. A mesenchyme-derived dermal papilla enclosed within the hair bulb at the base controls many aspects of follicle function. In the current hypothesis for androgen regulation, the dermal papilla is also considered the main site of androgen action with androgens from the blood binding to receptors in dermal papilla cells of androgen-sensitive follicles and causing an alteration of their production of paracrine factors for target cells e.g. keratinocytes. Studies of cultured dermal papilla cells from sites with different responses to androgens in vivo have confirmed the paradoxical responses. All dermal papilla cells from androgen-sensitive sites contain low capacity, high affinity androgen receptors. However, only some cells formed 5α-dihydrotestosterone, e.g. beard but not axillary cells, in line with hair growth in 5α-reductase deficiency. Incubation with androgens also stimulated the mitogenic capacity of beard cell media, but inhibited that produced by scalp cells. This suggests that the paradoxical differences are due to differential gene expression within hair follicles, presumably caused during embryogenesis.

Androgens stimulate many hair follicles to alter hair colour and size via the hair growth cycle; in androgenetic alopecia tiny, pale hairs gradually replace large, pigmented ones. Since stem cell factor (SCF) is important in embryonic melanocyte migration and maintaining adult rodent pigmentation, we investigated SCF/c-Kit signalling in human hair follicles to determine whether this was altered in androgenetic alopecia. Quantitative immunohistochemistry detected three melanocyte-lineage markers and c-Kit in four focus areas: the epidermis, infundibulum, hair bulb (where pigment is formed) and mid-follicle outer root sheath (ORS). Colocalisation confirmed melanocyte c-Kit expression; cultured follicular melanocytes also exhibited c-Kit. Few ORS cells expressed differentiated melanocyte markers or c-Kit, but NKI/beteb antibody, which also recognises early melanocyte-lineage antigens, identified fourfold more cells, confirmed by colocalisation. Occasional similar bulbar cells were seen. Melanocyte distribution, concentration and c-Kit expression were unaltered in balding follicles. Androgenetic alopecia cultured dermal papilla cells secreted less SCF, measured by ELISA, than normal cells. This identifies three types of melanocytelineage cells in human follicles. The c-Kit expression by dendritic, pigmenting, bulbar melanocytes and rounded, differentiated, non-pigmenting ORS melanocytes implicate SCF in maintaining pigmentation and migration into regenerating hair bulbs. Less differentiated, c-Kit-independent cells in the mid-follicle ORS stem cell niche and occasionally in the bulb, presumably a local reserve for long scalp hair growth, implicate other factors in activating stem cells. Androgens appear to reduce alopecia hair colour by inhibiting dermal papilla SCF production, impeding bulbar melanocyte pigmentation. These results may facilitate new treatments for hair colour changes in hirsutism, alopecia or greying.

Although ATP-sensitive potassium (K(ATP)) channel openers, e.g., minoxidil and diazoxide, can induce hair growth, their mechanisms require clarification. Improved drugs are needed clinically. but the absence of a good bioassay hampers research. K(ATP) channels from various tissues contain subtypes of the regulatory sulfonylurea receptor, SUR, and pore-forming, K(+) inward rectifier subunits, Kir6.X, giving differing sensitivities to regulators. Therefore, the in vitro effects of established potassium channel openers and inhibitors (tolbutamide and glibenclamide), plus a novel, selective Kir6.2/SUR1 opener, NNC 55-0118, were assessed on deer hair follicle growth in serum-free median without streptomycin. Minoxidil (0.1-100 microM, p<0.001), NNC 55-0118 (1 mM, p<0.01; 0.1, 10, 100 microM, p<0.001), and diazoxide (10 microM, p<0.01) increased growth. Tolbutamide (1 mM) inhibited growth (p<0.001) and abolished the effect of 10 microM minoxidil, diazoxide and NNC 55-0118; glibenclamide (10 microM) had no effect, but prevented stimulation by 10 microM minoxidil. Phenol red stimulated growth (p<0.001), but channel modulator responses remained unaltered. Thus, deer follicles offer a practical, ethically advantageous in vitro bioassay that reflects clinical responses in vivo. The results indicate direct actions of K(ATP) channel modulators within hair follicles via two types of channels, with SUR 1 and SUR 2, probably SUR2B, sulfonylurea receptors.

In the human epidermis both keratinocytes and melanocytes express POMC m-RNA. Immunohistochemical studies of both cell types demonstrate significantly higher levels of ␣ -MSH in melanocytes than in keratinocytes. Both cell types also hold the full capacity for de novo synthesis/ recycling of the essential cofactor (6R)-L -erythro-5,6,7,8-tetrahydrobiopterin (6BH 4 ). 6BH 4 is critical for the hydroxylation of the aromatic amino acids L -phenylalanine, L -tyrosine, and L -tryptophan, for nitric oxide production and in various immune modulatory processes. Recently it was shown that tyrosinase activity is regulated by 6BH 4 through a specific allosteric inhibition. The tyrosinase/6BH 4 inhibition can be activated by 1:1 complex formation between 6BH 4 and ␣ -MSH, but an excess of ␣ -MSH over 6BH 4 can inhibit tyrosinase due to complex formation by tyr 2 in the ␣ -MSH sequence. In both melanocytes and keratinocytes 6BH 4 controls the L -tyrosine supply via phenylalanine hydroxylase (PAH). Recently we were able to show that the cellular uptake of L -phenylalanine and its intracellular turnover to L -tyrosine is crucial for melanogenesis. ␣ -MSH can promote the production of L -tyrosine via PAH due to activation of the PAH tetramer to the more active dimer by removing 6BH 4 from the regulatory binding domain on the enzyme. In conclusion, ␣ -MSH can control (1) intracellular L -tyrosine formation from L -phenylalanine in both melanocytes and keratinocytes, and (2) tyrosinase activity, directly, in melanocytes.

CD154 is expressed by radioresistant cells in the bone marrow, and plays a role in fine-tuning B cell hematopoiesis.