In the studies described in this study, we introduce a novel ex vivo human skin barrier repair model. To develop this, we removed the upper layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC) by a reproducible cyanoacrylate stripping technique. After stripping the explants, they were cultured in vitro to allow the regeneration of the SC. We selected two culture temperatures 32 °C and 37 °C and a period of either 4 or 8 days. After 8 days of culture, the explant generated SC at a similar thickness compared to native human SC. At 37 °C, the early and late epidermal differentiation programmes were executed comparably to native human skin with the exception of the barrier protein involucrin. At 32 °C, early differentiation was delayed, but the terminal differentiation proteins were expressed as in stripped explants cultured at 37 °C. Regarding the barrier properties, the SC lateral lipid organization was mainly hexagonal in the regenerated SC, whereas the lipids in native human SC adopt a more dense orthorhombic organization. In addition, the ceramide levels were higher in the cultured explants at 32 °C and 37 °C than in native human SC. In conclusion, we selected the stripped ex vivo skin model cultured at 37 °C as a candidate model to study skin barrier repair because epidermal and SC characteristics mimic more closely the native human skin than the ex vivo skin model cultured at 32 °C. Potentially, this model can be used for testing formulations for skin barrier repair.
Restoring the lipid homeostasis of the stratum corneum (SC) is a common strategy to enhance skin barrier function. Here, we used a ceramide containing vernix caseosa (VC)-based formulation and were able to accelerate barrier recovery in healthy volunteers. The recovery was examined over 16 days by monitoring trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) after barrier disruption by tape-stripping. Four skin sites were used to examine the effects of both treatment and barrier recovery. After 16 days, samples were harvested at these sites to examine the SC ceramide composition and lipid organization. Changes in ceramide profiles were identified using principal component analysis. After barrier recovery, the untreated sites showed increased levels of ceramide subclass AS and ceramides with a 34 total carbon-atom chain length, while the mean ceramide chain length was reduced. These changes were diminished by treatment with the studied formulation, which concurrently increased the formulated ceramides. Correlations were observed between SC lipid composition, lipid organization, and TEWL, and changes in the ceramide subclass composition suggest changes in the ceramide biosynthesis. These results suggest that VC-based formulations enhance skin barrier recovery and are attractive candidates to treat skin disorders with impaired barrier properties.
In several skin diseases, both the lipid composition and organization in the stratum corneum (SC) are altered which contributes to the impaired skin barrier function in patients. One of the approaches for skin barrier repair is treatment with topical formulations to normalize SC lipid composition and organization. Vernix caseosa (VC), a white cheesy cream on the skin during gestational delivery, has shown to enhance skin barrier repair. In this study, we examined how a fatty acid (FA) containing formulation mimicking the lipid composition of VC interacts with the lipid matrix in the SC. The formulation was applied on ex vivo human skin after SC removal. Subsequently, the ex vivo human skin generated SC during culture. The effect of FA containing formulations on the lipid organization and composition in the regenerated SC was analysed by Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy and liquid chromatography mass spectroscopy (LC/MS), respectively. FTIR results demonstrate that the FAs are intercalated in the lipid matrix of the regenerated SC and partition in the same lattice with the endogenous SC lipids, thereby enhancing the fraction of lipids forming an orthorhombic (very dense) packing in the SC. LC/MS data show that the topically applied FAs are elongated before intercalation in the lipid matrix and are thus involved in the lipid biosynthesis in the skin.
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