The dyeing process commonly deteriorates the luster of pre-mercerized cotton fabric, so post-mercerization processes are regularly applied to compensate for this. Herein, the influence of combining pre-mercerization with CS (caustic solution) or LA (liquid ammonia) and post-mercerization with CS or LA on the morphological structure, dyeing performance, tensile strength, and stiffness of woven cotton fabric was investigated. The crystallinity index values greatly decreased from 73.12 to 51.25, 58.73, 38.42, and 40.90% after the combined mercerization processes of LA–LA, CS–CS, LA–CS, and CS–LA, respectively. Additionally, the CS–LA- and LA–CS-treated samples exhibited a mixture of cellulose II and cellulose III allomorphs. The combined mercerization processing of cotton fabric resulted in slightly worse thermal stability. The LA and CS pre-mercerization processes increased the dye exhaustion, although the former decreased the dye fixation rate while the latter increased it by 4% for both dyes. The color strength of the dyed cotton fabric increased after both post-mercerization processes. Moreover, the fabric stiffness and mechanical properties showed an increasing trend due to the combined mercerization efforts.

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A two-stage sequential pretreatment including caustic mercerization (CM) and liquid ammonia (LA) treatment was applied to investigate the influence on dyeing performance and handle of knit cotton fabric, and the relationship between dye size and dyeing properties. Various techniques were applied to characterize all the treated fabrics. X-ray diffraction (XRD) and Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) analyses of the treated fabrics confirmed that both sequential treatments decreased the crystallinity of cotton fabric more than only the CM or LA treatment. The pattern of cellulose I was transferred to a mixed configuration of cellulose II and cellulose III after the CM/LA or LA/CM treatment. Thermal performances measured by thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) and differential thermogravimetry (DTG) techniques showed that the thermal stability of the treated cotton only marginally decreased. The wicking height increased after the sequential CM/LA treatment, indicating that the hydrophilicity of the fabric increased. The dye absorption and color uniformity were better for the reactive dye with a smaller molecular weight (Reactive Red 2) compared with the one with a larger molecular weight (Reactive Red 195). The total dye fixation efficiency (T%) increased to 72.93% and 73.24% for Reactive Red 2 dyeings of CM/LA- and LA/CM-cotton fabric from 46.75% of the untreated fabric, respectively; the T% increased to 65.33% and 72.27% for Reactive Red 195 dyeings of CM/LA- and LA/CM-cotton fabric from 35.17% of the untreated fabric, respectively. The colorfastness and dye exhaustion and fixation percentages of the samples were enhanced after the treatments. Furthermore, compared to the single CM or LA treatment, the softness handle properties were further improved after the fabrics were sequentially treated by CM/LA. The developed pre-treatment of CM/LA can be used in the textile industry to promote the dyeability, handle, and mechanical properties of knit cotton fabrics.

Liquid ammonia (LA) dyeing is a zero-effluent and sustainable dyeing technology investigated for textiles.

For many centuries, traditional grass cloth has been used as an important raw material for home textiles in China, but its market can be expanded by incorporating color. Reactive Red 2 (R2), Reactive Blue 194 (B194), and Reactive Orange 5 (O5) were used in this work to explore the dyeing behavior of sustainable traditional grass fiber using industrial dyeing methods. Initially, an L16 (4^4) orthogonal design was schematically applied to carry out the dyeing process and it was determined that the total dye fixation rate (T%) of B194 dye was the best among the three dyes. Accordingly, a statistical Taguchi technique was analyzed on a larger scale to optimize the dyeing process parameters (salt concentration, fixation time, fixation temperature, and solution pH) of B194, in which solution pH was found to be the most influential factor in achieving the highest T%. This phenomenon was also verified using analysis of variance (ANOVA), where the solution pH was found to be the biggest contributor (50%) and statistically significant (p < 0.05). Finally, confirmation tests were conducted under optimized conditions and a higher T% (53.18%) was determined compared to initial conditions (48.40%). Later, Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy and scanning electron microscopy (SEM) were used to analyze the structural characteristics and found that grass cloth was chemically stable, yet gummy materials were still observed on their surface, which was also confirmed from digital photographs. Generally, the color coordinates and fastness properties were also satisfactory.