Purpose The health and environmental hazards associated with synthetic dyes have led to a revival of natural dyes that are non-toxic, environmentally benign and coupled with various functions. The study aims to investigate and develop the potentiality of a popular herb called Chromolaena odorata (C. odorata) as a sustainable and stable dyestuff in textiles. Design/methodology/approach Natural colorant extracted from C. odorata leaves is used to dye the worsted fabric, which is one of the premier end-use of wool in fashion, via the padding method associated with pre-, simultaneous and post-mordanting with chitosan, tannic acid and copper sulfate pentahydrate. The effects of extraction, dyeing and mordanting processes on fabric’s color strength K/S and color difference ΔECMC are investigated via International Commission on Illumination’s L*a*b* color space, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, scanning electron microscope, color fastness to washing, rubbing, perspiration and light. Findings The results obtained indicate extraction with ethanol 90% with a solid/liquid ratio of 1:5 within 1 h, and coloration with a liquor ratio of 1:5 (pH 5) within 2 h under padding pressure of 0.3 MPa are the most effective for coloring worsted fabric. Practical implications The C. odorata’s application as a highly effective dyestuff possessing good colorimetric effectiveness has expanded this herb's economic potential, contributing partly to economic growth and adding value to wool in global supply chain. Originality/value C. odorata dyestuff has prevailed over other natural colorants because of its impressive color fastness against washing, rubbing, perspiration and especially color stability for pH change.
PurposeThe textile industry has consumed large quantities of water and discharged large volumes of wastewater in the dyeing process. The study aims to characterize self-dyed silk with Rhodamine B (RhB) for fashion applications to reduce textile hazards to the environment and increase the added value of silk.Design/methodology/approachBombyx mori was fed with RhB-colored mulberry leaves (1500 ppm). The effects of self-dyeing were investigated via color strength K/S, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), scanning electron microscope, X-ray diffraction, tensile strength, color fastness to washing, rubbing, perspiration and light.FindingsSelf-dyed silk possesses effective coloration and impressive color fastness (4–5/5), higher crystalline index (CrI) (73.26 ± 2.28%), less thermal stability and tenacity, slight change in amino acid composition compared with the pristine and no existence of harmful aromatic azo amines and arylamine salts.Practical implicationsThe application of self-dyed silk with RhB dye has expanded new technology into fashion industry, contributing partly to economic growth and adding value to silk in the global supply chain. Besides, the self-dyeing will yield practical values in the reduction of dyeing discharge in textile industry.Originality/valueSelf-dyed silk was characterized for textile applications in comparison with pristine silk in terms of color strength and fastness as well as determined its polymeric properties relating to crystallinity, morphology, chemical composition, tensile properties and thermal stability which have not been investigated before.
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