A bacterial cutinase from Thermobifida fusca, named Tfu_0883, was genetically modified by site-directed mutagenesis to enhance its activity on poly(ethylene terephthalate) (PET). The new mutations tailored the catalytic site for PET, increasing the affinity of cutinase to this hydrophobic substrate and the ability to hydrolyze it. The mutation I218A was designed to create space and the double mutation Q132A/T101A was designed both to create space and to increase hydrophobicity. The activity of the double mutant on the soluble substrate p-nitrophenyl butyrate increased two-fold compared to wild-type cutinase, while on PET both single and double mutants exhibited considerably higher hydrolysis efficiency. The replacement of specific amino acids at the active site was an effective approach for the improvement of the Tfu_0883 cutinase capacity to hydrolyze polyester surfaces. Thus, this study provides valuable insight on how the function and stability of enzymes can be improved by molecular engineering for their application in synthetic fiber biotransformation.

Abstract:Hair can be strategically divided into two distinct parts: the hair follicle, deeply buried in the skin, and the visible hair fiber. The study of the hair follicle is mainly addressed by biological sciences while the hair fiber is mainly studied from a physicochemical perspective by cosmetic sciences. This paper reviews the key topics in hair follicle biology and hair fiber biochemistry, in particular the ones associated with the genetically determined cosmetic attributes: hair texture and shape. The traditional and widespread hair care procedures that transiently or permanently affect these hair fiber features are then described in detail. When hair is often exposed to some particularly aggressive cosmetic treatments, hair fibers become damaged. The future of hair cosmetics, which are continuously evolving based on ongoing research, will be the development of more efficient and safer procedures according to consumers' needs and concerns.

A laccase from Ascomycete myceliophthora thermophila was used to assist the binding of chitosan and catechin onto a previous enzymatically oxidized linen surface. The process consists of the pre-treatment of the linen with laccase followed by the application of chitosan in a first step and catechin plus laccase in a second step. The results presented here support the conclusion that laccase is able to oxidize phenols naturally existing in flax fibres, and that the o-quinones formed promote the attachment of chitosan or/and catechin. The pre-treatment of linen with laccase is therefore the key factor for the success of catechin and chitosan grafting. A multifunctional linen product with both antioxidant and antibacterial properties was obtained with an acceptable level of durability in terms of end user requirements.

Due to their recognised properties of biocompatibility, biodegradability and sustainability, chitosan nanocarriers have been successfully used as new delivery systems. In this work, nanoparticles combining chitosan and lignosulfonates were developed for the first time for cosmetic and biomedical applications. The ability of lignosulfonates to act as a counter polyion for stabilisation of chitosan particles, generated using high intensity ultrasound, was investigated. Several conditions for particles preparation were tested and optimised and the resulting nanoparticles were comprehensively characterised by measuring particle size, zeta potential and polydispersity index. The pH of chitosan solution, sonication time and the presence of an adequate surfactant, poloxamer 407, were determinant factors on the development of smaller particles with low polydispersity index (an average particle size of 230 nm was obtained at pH 5 after 8 min of sonication). The beneficial effects of lignosulfonates complex on chitosan nanoparticles were further characterised. Greater stability to lysozyme degradation, biocompatibility with human cells and antimicrobial activity was found upon lignosulfonates incorporation into chitosan nanoparticles. Furthermore, these particles were able to incorporate a hydrophilic model protein - RNase A. A burst release was observed when nanoparticles were loaded with low amount of protein while with high protein content, a sustained release was found, suggesting that the protein cargo maybe loaded both at the surface as in the bulk of the particle, depending on the concentration of drug incorporated.

Melanin quantification is reportedly performed by absorption spectroscopy, commonly at 405 nm. Here, we propose the implementation of fluorescence spectroscopy for melanin assessment. In a typical in vitro assay to assess melanin production in response to an external stimulus, absorption spectroscopy clearly overvalues melanin content. This method is also incapable of distinguishing non-melanotic/amelanotic control cells from those that are actually capable of performing melanogenesis. Therefore, fluorescence spectroscopy is the best method for melanin quantification as it proved to be highly specific and accurate, detecting even small variations in the synthesis of melanin. This method can also be applied to the quantification of melanin in more complex biological matrices like zebrafish embryos and human hair.

The application of an odorant binding protein for odour control and fragrance delayed release from a textile surface was first explored in this work. Pig OBP-1 gene was cloned and expressed in Escherichia coli, and the purified protein was biochemically characterized. The IC₅₀ values (concentrations of competitor that caused a decay of fluorescence to half-maximal intensity) were determined for four distinct fragrances, namely, citronellol, benzyl benzoate, citronellyl valerate and ethyl valerate. The results showed a strong binding of citronellyl valerate, citronellol and benzyl benzoate to the recombinant protein, while ethyl valerate displayed weaker binding. Cationized cotton substrates were coated with porcine odorant binding protein and tested for their capacity to retain citronellol and to mask the smell of cigarette smoke. The immobilized protein delayed the release of citronellol when compared to the untreated cotton. According to a blind evaluation of 30 assessors, the smell of cigarette smoke, trapped onto the fabrics' surface, was successfully attenuated by porcine odorant binding protein (more than 60 % identified the weakest smell intensity after protein exposure compared to β-cyclodextrin-treated and untreated cotton fabrics). This work demonstrated that porcine odorant binding protein can be an efficient solution to prevent and/or remove unpleasant odours trapped on the large surface of textiles. Its intrinsic properties make odorant binding proteins excellent candidates for controlled release systems which constitute a new application for this class of proteins.

The surface of an acrylic fibre containing about 7% of vinyl acetate was modified using Fusarium solani pisi cutinase and a commercial esterase, Texazym PES. The effect of acrylic solvents and stabilising polyols on cutinase operational stability was studied. The half-life time of cutinase increased by 3.5-fold with the addition of 15% N,N-dimethylacetamide (DMA) and by 3-fold with 1M glycerol. The impact of additives and mechanical agitation in the protein adsorption and in the hydrolysis of vinyl acetate from acrylic fabric was investigated. The hydroxyl groups produced on the surface of the fibre were able to react specifically with Remazol Brilliant Blue R (cotton reactive dye) and to increase the colour of the acrylic-treated fabric. The best staining level was obtained with a high level of mechanical agitation and with the addition of 1% DMA. Under these conditions, the raise in the acrylic fabric colour depth was 30% for cutinase and 25% for Texazym. The crystallinity degree, determined by X-ray diffraction, was not significantly changed between control samples and samples treated with cutinase. The results showed that the outcome of the application of these enzymes depends closely on the reaction media conditions.

The stability of cutinase was measured in the presence of dimethylacetamide (DMA) and benzyl alcohol (BA). These solvents are known swelling agents of polyamide fibers. We found that cutinase retains some stability (half-life of 14 h), enough for an enzymatic treatment with a solvent composition of 1.5% DMA þ 10% BA. Enzymatic treatment in the presence of these solvent compositions yields more soluble amino groups as well as more amino end groups at the fiber level. We have shown evidence that the presence of minor quantities of solvent can increase the accessibility of the enzyme towards the polyamide fiber. V V C 2005 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. J Polym Sci Part A: Polym Chem 43: 2749-2753, 2005